compensated down to the present time by the increased price obtained for the wine.

3d OBJECTION.-Sulphur used on the grapes imparts a bad taste, which enters into the wine.

This is no better founded than the other objections. It is true, wine from grapes recently sulphured has a very marked sulphurous flavor, which lasts a good while, but when nothing else has been mixed with the sulphur, there is nothing to fear from this; ordinarily it passes away without leaving any trace after the drawings off which remove the wine from the coarse lees. The taste, besides, is slight when the sulphuring has been done in a rational manner, without covering the grapes with a useless quantity of dust, and that, too, so late in the season that no good could come of it, however applied. have had in my cellar many large casks full of wine from sulphured grapes; it has always kept well and brought a good price. Nor have I ever learned that the case was different in the cellars of others. To

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my view, the feeble quantity of gas which may develop from the sulphur in such wines is a preservative agent, and imparts a peculiar stability.

But, however this may be, there is a sure means to avoid the contracting of any such taste. It consists in making the last sulphuring not later than from

the 20th of July to the 15th of August, and in using a bellows instead of flinging on the powder from a box, and at a period so late that there can be no need for it in any case.

But, even after the sulphur taste has been contracted, it can be removed easily enough by once or twice drawing off. Usually the first drawing off, which, by removing the coarse lees, disposes of the greater part of the sulphur, is found sufficient.

M. Barral has pointed out a way of more promptly effecting the same object: it consists in drawing off the wine into a cask in which sulphur has been burned in the ordinary method of fumigation. The sulphureted hydrogen which gives the bad taste decomposes in contact with the sulphurous acid introduced by the fumigation, and the wine is quickly relieved of the presence of the former. Wine destined for the still should be carefully rid of the taste in question, as otherwise it will enter into the brandy.

We know that great quantities of sulphur are used by wine-merchants to fumigate their casks. There is no more reason to fear injury to the quality of the wine in the one case than in the other. *

* But a few years since, wine was shipped from Cette to Holland quite new, on the lees, and strongly sulphured. This wine, after the treatment, appeared to have lost color. In that state it made the sea

In 1855 and 1856 wines from sulphured grapes generally possessed a superiority over others which caused them to be sought after. Their color was livelier and their maturity more equal. It was the same in 1857. These are advantages which decide the question altogether in favor of sulphur.

When the sulphur used on the vines has been the triturated article from raw material of inferior quality, or mixed with other matters capable of forming sulphurets, it may happen that a disagreeable taste will be produced, quite distinct from that which comes from sulphureted hydrogen. This will be due to the presence in the wine of a small quantity of soluble sulphurets: it is very tenacious. At the same time, if the casks are strongly fumigated with burning sulphur and drawn off several times, it ought to disappear, because sulphurous acid decomposes soluble sulphurets.

When vines are treated with sulphur that is free from all mixture, like the flour or triturated rolls, there is no danger of such accidents.

4th OBJECTION.-Sufficient sulphur can not be obtained to cure, every year, all the diseased vines.

voyage, and on its arrival was allowed to repose. It was drawn off several times and then clarified. It became excellent, and was remarked for its freshness and delicacy.

Admitting that the vine disease will continue for a long time and with its present virulence, we shall certainly need a good deal of sulphur. But there is hardly a limit to its production; millions of quintals may be obtained, if needed. The rise in price of the flour did not extend to crude sulphur, so large is the supply. It was the suddenness of the demand that made flour of sulphur temporarily dear. Let the extent of the prospective demand be known, and the increased means of manufacturing it will bring down the price to a reasonable point,* and medicine enough be found to heal all the sick.

*Within six months from writing the above, this prediction was fully realized.

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CHAPTER XVII.

MONTPELLIER AND HENRI MARES.

ND now we will go to Montpellier and make the acquaintance of M. Marès himself. Montpellier was once a capital of Languedoc, Toulouse being another. As long ago as the times of the Crusades, it was a republic, free and flourishing, and "the hope of the free." It was ruined, however, by long wars, waged on each side to correct the theology and save the souls of those on the other side.

In a fine old mansion near the beautiful park, or rather point of view called the Perou, I found M. Marès. He met me as he should, and I spent an hour with him explaining what my errand was, and endeavoring to interest him in it. On parting, he promised that, on the day but one following, he would call and go with me over some of his vines, excusing himself for not doing so the next day, as it was a fête.

To properly occupy the fête-day, I took the train for Cette, the neighboring sea-port, a place of large