trees. Our pilots informed us that this was a portion of the Tokaido, or imperial highway, which leads all the way from Yedo to Nagasaki. Sometimes the sea appeared completely land-locked, and resembled a lake with its bays and inlets; at other times it had the river-like appearance I have already noticed. Some of us compared it to Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, or the Kiles of Bute; but, although probably it had a partial resemblance to all these places in the Scottish Highlands, yet it had a character peculiarly its own. In the afternoon we had a good view of the castle and fortress of Meara-sama, situated at the head of a deep bay. This castle is said to be remarkable in Japan for its great strength. It is supposed to be one of the strongest in the empire, and perfectly impregnable. A massive sea-wall was built along the sea-shore; while behind this wall were seen castles, turrets, and watchtowers, inhabited by this feudal chief and his numerous retainers. Leaving this bay and its stronghold on our right and to the westward, our course led us in a more southerly direction, the channel still narrow and winding. This part continued as populous as that which I have already noticed when we entered the "narrows," and large villages, composed of comfortable-looking houses-not densely packed together, but divided by fields and gardens-were everywhere seen along the shores. In the evening we passed out into a wider part of the sea, and anchored for the night at a place called Metari. Boats in large numbers, filled with wondering natives, had been sculling round us to get a sight of the ship that went ahead without wind or sails, and of the strange beings from some far-off foreign land who crowded her deck. While we were sitting at dinner, and speaking of the strange and beautiful scenery through which we had passed during the day, a messenger came on board to inform us that the high officers of the place were coming off to pay us a visit. In a few minutes three quiet, modest-looking individuals were ushered into the cabin, and led up to the head of the table, where Captain Dundas was seated. They wanted to know whence we came, what we wanted, and whither we were bound-all of which questions, with many others, were answered to their entire satisfaction. They were then politely offered wine, biscuits, and sundry other things which were upon the table. Each of them tasted what was set before him, and then, pulling out a piece of paper, wrapped up in it the remainder of the solids, and thrust the parcel into his wide sleeve. Such is the custom of the country, and such is termed politeness in Japan. A numerous retinue of servants attended these high officials, all of whom were delighted with what was given to them, and begged for more! As these gentry took their departure, they intimated to us that an officer of a yet higher rank than theirs was coming on board. This personage presented himself soon afterwards, and, giving his swords to an attendant, walked up to the head of the table as the others had done. The ceremony of questioning, drinking, eating, and pocketing was gone through a second time, and then, with many low bows and expressions of thanks, the great man and his attendants took their departure for the shore. Dec. 21st.-We weighed anchor this morning as usual at daylight. We were now in what is called the Suwo-nada Sea. It is wide, has few islands, and is connected with the Pacific Ocean by a wide passage known as the Bun-go Channel. We were too far from the land to note anything worthy of interest on its shores. This sea is chiefly remarkable for gales of wind of great violence, owing, probably, to the Bun-go Channel forming a sort of funnel between this Inland Sea and the Pacific Ocean. We were destined to experience one of these gales on the present occasion. It commenced in the morning, and by the afternoon had increased to a hurricane. The wind was not steady, but came down in fearful gusts, strong enough, almost, to blow any one overboard who ventured on the poop of the vessel. A trysail, which had been set, was riven from the sheets, and its block shaken with fearful violence and thrown into the sea. The scene reminded me of a powerful bulldog tearing and shaking a cat, and then casting it away in anger when he had deprived it of life. In this state of things the England' made but little headway, and it was determined that we should look out for a safe anchorage for 6 |