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VIII.

GENERAL HICKS' LINE OF OPERATIONS.

How does one go from Cairo to the Egyptian Soudan?

You can ascend the Nile to Korosko, as Ismaïl did in 1821, and follow the too famous road of the Nubian desert, which, of old, was inaugurated by Cambyses; but the prospect is not very seductive. It is far better, in every respect, to tread in the steps of Doctor Schweinfurth-to take the Red Sea at Suez; to land at Souakim; to cross the chain of

* Champollion the younger considers that Cambyses took the road of the Nubian desert, a tedious route, but relatively short, as it saves the traveller a long circuitous journey by the Valley of the Nile. This road in the desert is used at the present time by caravans.

During that expedition of Cambyses, says Herodotus, the provisions for the troops of the column fell short. The Persians began by eating their beasts of burden; but afterwards found themselves reduced to the greatest extremities. Cannibalism was resorted to in their thinned ranks. These unfortunate men drew lots, and were decimated to avoid starvation.

* to

mountains skirting the coast near Tokar ; follow, then, the Caravan Road, which lead to Berber (El Mecherif). From Berber, one ascends the Nile to Khartoum, and one finds oneself in the heart of the Soudan.

Although preferable to the Korosko route, this road from Souakim to Berber is singularly fatiguing. It crosses a desert lately explored by MM. Schweinfurth, Marno, and Güssfeldt, and which was made practicable by Ismaïl Bey.

Following the advice of Sir Samuel Baker, which was in conformity with that of Dr. Schweinfurth, General Hicks selected Souakim for his base of operations.

The troops and stores were landed there.

Souakim is the chief town of the Mudirlik of that name, and forms part of the principal Government termed the "Red Sea Coasts." It is the only port which, from Kosseir to Massowah, is found on its coasts,

* Tokar is a spot on the littoral of the Red Sea, situated at one hundred kilometres to the south of Souakim, not far from the mouth of the Bara. This river, or rather torrent, descends by a narrow pass on the north-east side of "Djebel Lamgheb," one of the largest masses in the chain of mountains skirting the coast. The inhabitants of this region are Beni Amers, undisciplined and turbulent tribes.

It is the

and its harbour is difficult of access on account of the reefs of coral through which the vessels have to steer their way. Built partly on terra firma, partly on an islet, the town contains from eight to ten thousand inhabitants, traders, or pearl fishers. arrival station of the caravans from Nubia. Thus the quays are always encumbered with ivory teeth and bags of gum, which are loaded on a crowd of trading boats, all daubed with bright colours. Picturesque details! Most of the houses are pierced with windows framed with sculptures and branches of coral.

At the time the troops landed, the aim of the expedition was the subject of a deal of criticism. General Hicks, people said, is engaged in an enterprise not without danger. He is undertaking a campaign which, even according to Schweinfurth, must last over eighteen months. But, from March to October, the climate he will have to face is unbearable for Europeans. The deserts he will have to cross will throw in his way considerable difficulties; they will impose upon him, at any rate, innumerable privations. Can he depend on the loyalty of his troops? These Egyptians, tampered with by agents of the Mahdi, will they really obey English officers,

and will they not desert on the way, or, at least, at the first contact with the enemy? The success of such an enterprise is anything but certain.

Nevertheless, the expedition started from Sou

akim.

The desolate shores of the Red Sea are bordered by volcanic mountains, whose burning sinuosities do not allow a single drop of water to escape. Not a blade of grass is to be seen on this land, formerly thrown into commotion by subterranean fires, and scorched now by a tropical sun.

It was on such soil that the first halts were made.

Then at the foot of the western slope of the chain of mountains, on the littoral stretches out as far as the eye can reach, a sea of sand, a sheet of incandescent silica, a desert-for in Africa each road has its desert. It is only at the cost of a painful march and unheard-of sufferings that the journey can be accomplished. The track to be followed winds through a succession of arid passes, bare plains, and table-lands strewn with stones. The burning heat of the climate has, all along the road, left as landmarks the carcases of camels which had fallen dead on the spot from fatigue and exhaustion. In the

Sahara they are skeletons one meets with. Here the dryness is such that it prevents the remains from: decomposing. Like a bit of parchment, the skin of the dead animals remains adhering to their bones.

The climate of these places may be called pyrometric. Night there does not counteract the effects of the solar heat which has raged during the day; at three o'clock in the morning the stones are still burning from the heat absorbed by them during the previous day. Under this torrid action, wood becomes tinder, and leather is turned into sheets of zinc.

Caravans have to traverse, on this road, immense barren tracks, the aspect of which reminds one of shores forsaken by the sea. On the edge of the quicksands, high downs, furrowed with gaps, attest the viclence of the storms which rage there. From the midst of the dazzling white sands emerge thick masses of black granite, the contrast suggesting sepulchral ideas. There you witness always the odious phenomenon of mirage. As far as the eye can reach, the mountains appear turned upside down, resting on their peaks as if they were on their natural base. They assume fantastic shapes in the eyes of