a treeless country, on the city side of the river hilly and undulating, and opposite an extensive plain as far as the eye could reach; but, saving on Silver Island, whose temples and groves had in some way or another escaped the general ruin, not a tree was visible. This accounted for the general assembly of rooks and jackdaws which took place every evening about sunset, when in dense clouds these birds hung over the summit of the beautiful island, circling round and round as is their wont before settling themselves for the night's repose. Then again with the first rays of light and heat, before separating, each flock for its favourite feeding-ground, they went through a similar performance. The number was so enormous that I should not have been loth to believe that all the corvido of China had here assembled. Their doings interested me; and as I watched them repair to their chosen resting-place each evening, and depart again in early morning, I reflected that while they carried on their duty in the great theatre of nature in peace, under the same sun thousands of beings of what we call a higher order, and endowed with reasoning faculties, were cutting one another's throats. But then I thought it was not such a bad thing for the rooks either, and I was just fancying what a fine thing it would be to be a Kiang-su rook, able to breakfast off a dead rebel, and sup on a headless Imperialist, when-"Eight bells, sir." "Thank you." That means grog in the cabin.

But I was almost going to leave Chin-kiang without establishing a Consul at this the first port opened to foreign trade by the late treaty. The gentleman who had been selected to act pro tem. as Her Majesty's representative, had already placed himself in communication with the chief mandarins of the place, and a position had been agreed on for the British Consulate. It was a temple, or rather I should say, had been one, on the summit of a bluff just within and overlooking the city. The position was imposing, but particularly airy, which

however it then required to be to render it habitable, such an amount of filth lay scattered on all sides. It was situated just at that part of the river where no vessel could possibly anchor, as is not unusual with British enterprises of this kind; however, it had the advantage of the later concessions at the upper ports, in not being likely to be under water the whole

summer.

A flagstaff had been rigged by the ship's boatswain, and at a certain hour-I forget which exactly, but it was some time in the morning the British jack was seen to break from the truck. At that instant the first gun of the Attalante' went "puff;" the second went "puff"-hang those old Dutch popguns, they are three times as wide at the muzzle as they should be; the third does not go off at all; a run is made with the redhot poker to No. 4, feeling which No. 4 explodes with a tremendous bang, then topples over, and reclines carelessly on the deck. "I say, gunner, what did you put in that gun?" 'Nothing, sir." Of course not, which is the reason, no doubt, it kicked so terribly. Nos. 5 and 6 are "let off," which make five guns of the salute, No. 3 not having exploded. No. 1 is loaded again, but this time objects to reply to the command "Fire." No. 2 is not ready. Try No. 3 again. No, it's no use, he won't go, the brute hangs in the breeching. Then a pause certainly more than the orthodox interval for salute firing-after which, two others being got ready and fired, the seven guns are made complete-Her Majesty's Representative is established, and the British flag insulted.

66

I see

two urchins looking for a piece of something-they have no knives-wherewith to cut away the spare portion of the haulyards; an old man gazes with longing eyes on the fir pole, for he has a fuelless and starving family in a hovel hard by; and another ruffian swears he'll have the bunting for a shirt. During the Admiral's absence at Nanking Mr. Parkes arrived per Bouncer,' Lieutenant Creasy having run on all

night from Woosung without stopping,—and, waiting only long enough to deliver our letters, he proceeded towards Nanking. About half way the Admiral was met returning, and by evening the Coromandel' and 'Bouncer' were again at anchor along with us. Next morning Sir James Hope started to go down and collect the squadron, and Mr. Parkes at once entered into negotiations with the principal mandarins at Chin-kiang concerning a piece of ground for the British concession; after which the Admiral's orders were that the 'Attalante' should proceed to Nanking and there await his arrival. The 'Bouncer' was told off as guard-vessel for the Consul at Chin-kiang; and when Lieutenant Creasy moved down to take up an anchorage off the new Consulate, he was kind enough to afford those who wished to avail themselves of it, a passage to Silver Island. It was most delightful weather, and we enjoyed a ramble over the beautiful island exceedingly.

After visiting the temples and making friends with the shaven-pated Bhuddist priests, we crossed in a boat to the south side of the river, and thence walked along the bank and into the city. On looking over the wall we observed the Bouncer' hard and fast on a rock close in to the shore. She had got into this position while trying to find an anchorage off the new Consulate however, after we had been sitting a long time on the wall watching the different attempts to get her off, and chaffing her commander, she at last slipped quietly into deep water, proceeded up above the town, and again anchored near our vessel.

On the morning of the 24th of February the anchor was weighed, and at half-past eight the 'Attalante' left Chinkiang under steam. Mr. Parkes was on board. The distance to Nanking is forty-five miles, but to which, in estimating the voyage, has to be added the force of a strong current. Immediately after starting we passed the principal mouth of the

northern section of the Grand Canal, where a large fleet of Imperial junks was collected, besides a brig and schooner in the same employ. The southern entrance to the Canal is about eight miles below Chin-kiang, whence it passes through a gap in the range of hills between that place and Kiun-shan. It was said to be filled up in many places and altogether useless.

Above Chin-kiang the hills, trending to the westward some three or four miles from the river, are from 500 to 800 feet high, and connected with those in the neighbourhood of Nanking. On the north bank the first high land is met half way between the two places, and a pagoda or two serve as landmarks. Hitherto the country on both banks of the river had been in the hands of the Imperialists, but now we passed their last outpost, where a few war-junks, displaying numerous variegated banners and standards, lay in a small creek on the north bank. A short distance above, we found a similar position held by the Rebels, and on the point where the river makes a bend before forming the last curved reach below Nanking, and opposite a line of red sandstone cliffs, a large number of people were employed throwing up a heavy earthen battery. The position had been well selected for commanding the passage of the river, and the work itself would have done credit to other than Celestial engineers.

After stemming the yet pea-soup-like current for over ten hours, we arrived near the Heavenly city just at dark, and anchored for the night as best we could in the stream. On the following morning we shifted and took up a position out of the strength of the current, off Theodolite Point, the upper end of an island formed by a loop of the river, cutting off a considerable round; having plenty of water, though. narrow, it will doubtless, notwithstanding the edict of the "Great Wang" to the contrary, be used by most vessels on the upward voyage.

Our stay at Nanking embraced the rest of the month of

February; and, as the weather was fine, the Taipings not quite so bad as they had been represented, and the country well stocked with game, we made daily excursions either within or without the walls, passing the time very pleasantly. The nearest point of the city is about a quarter of a mile from the river, the intervening space being occupied by moats, ruined temples, and the remains of a suburb. Under the Taiping rule part of this has been walled in, and some batteries thrown up on the river bank. An officer of rank, formerly a common coolie, acts as Chief of the Customs, and all trade is supposed to be carried on here, as no mercantile transactions are allowed within the city.

The first day we were ashore a large party of us made our way, through this stinking suburb, to the city. What struck every one most at first was of course the tremendous heads of hair, when we had been accustomed to see cleanly shaven pates. But next to that were the gaudy colours of the dresses of both men and women; being a striking contrast to the sombre blue and grey of the inhabitants of the settled districts. These colours, and the textures of the silks and satins from which they shone, told tales of plunder and robbery—of fire and the sword-of Soo-chow and Hang-chow; they showed why the waters of the Grand Canal cease to be ploughed by deep-laden craft; why China requires to be fed with the rice of Siam; and they scented of a government become rotten.

Proceeding towards the north-west gate of the city, we obtained admission only by making a rush just as the keepers were in the act of closing the doors against us, and by forcing them back. The consequence of which was, as we were officially informed from head-quarters, that these poor people were beheaded the same day. This we considered such summary justice, that we resolved to find out their widows, and do what we could in providing for the fatherless children. With