CHAPTER VII. A journey in search of new plants-Japanese College - Residence of Prince Kanga Dang-o-zaka Its tea-gardens, fish-ponds, and floral ladies — Nursery-gardens-Country people — Another excursion Soldiers Arrive at Su-mae-yah - Country covered with gardens New plants Mode of dwarfing- Variegated plants Ogee, the Richmond of Yedo - Its tea-house —The Tycoon's hunting-ground Fine views Agricultural productions · A drunken man-Intemperance of the people generally. - THE capital of Japan is remarkable for the large number of gardens in its suburbs where plants are cultivated for sale. The good people of Yedo, like all highly civilized nations, are fond of flowers, and hence the demand for them is very great. The finest and most extensive of these gardens are situated in the north-eastern suburbs, at places called Dang-o-zaka, Ogee, and Su-mae-yah. As one of my chief objects in coming to Yedo was to examine such places as these, I lost no time in paying them a visit. As the British Legation was situated in the south-west suburb, I had to cross the entire city before I could reach these gardens. From the time occupied in going this distance I estimated the width of the city, in this direction, at about nine or ten miles. Passing in from the western suburb, I went through the "Official Quarter," with its 104 RESIDENCE OF PRINCE KANGA. CHAP. VII. wide straight streets and town residences of the Daimios or lords and princes of the Empire, which have been already noticed. On a rising ground on my left I observed the palace of the Tycoon. Proceeding onward in an easterly direction, I recrossed the moat, and was again amongst the streets and shops of the common people. Here, on a hill-side, in the midst of some tall pines and evergreen oaks, I observed a large building, which, I was informed, was a college for students of Chinese classics. A little further on I passed the palace of the Prince of Kanga, reputed to be the wealthiest and most powerful noble in the empire, and to have no less than 40,000 retainers located in his palaces in the capital, ready to do his bidding, whether that be to dethrone the Tycoon or to take the life of a foreigner. He was reported to be at the head of the conservative party in the empire, and to be unfavourable to foreigners. After passing the residence of Prince Kanga I found myself in the eastern suburb. One long street, with houses on each side of the way, and detached towns here and there, extended two or three miles beyond this. Turning out of this street to the right hand, I passed through some pretty shaded lanes, and in a few minutes more reached the romantic town of Dang-o-zaka. This pretty place is situated in a valley, having wooded hills on either side, with gardens, fish-ponds, and tea-houses in the glen and on the sides of the hills. In the principal tea-gardens the fish-ponds are stocked with different kinds of fish; and I observed a number of anglers amusing themselves fishing, in the usual way, with hooks baited with worms. The most curious objects in this garden were imitation ladies made up out of the flowers of the chrysanthemum. Thousands of flowers were used for this purpose; and as these artificial beauties smiled upon the visitors out of the little alcoves and summer houses, the effect was oftentimes rather startling. The favourite flowering plumtrees were planted in groups and avenues in all parts of the garden, while little lakes and islands. of rockwork added to the general effect. Having patronised this establishment by taking sundry cups of tea, I intimated to my attendant yakoneens my intention to look out for some gardens of a different kind, in which I could purchase some new plants. But pleasure was the order of the day with them, and they coolly informed me there were no other places worth seeing here, and that we had better go on to the tea-gardens of Ogee. From information I had previously received, I knew they were deceiving me, and therefore proceeded to take a general survey on my own account. When they saw I was determined to look out for myself, they pretended to have received some information about other places, and said they were willing to guide me to them. Telling them I was greatly obliged, I desired them to lead the way. A short walk to the top of the hill brought us to a long, straight, 106 NURSERY-GARDENS. CHAP. VII. country-looking road, lined with neatly clipped hedges. Here I found a large number of nursery gardens, richly stocked with the ornamental plants of the country. Crowds of people followed us, and, although they were rather noisy, and anxious to see such a strange sight as a foreigner in these outof-the-way places, they were, upon the whole, particularly civil and easily managed and controlled. As I entered a nursery the gates were quietly closed upon the people, who waited patiently until I came out, and then they followed me on to the next. The yakoneens seemed to be greatly respected, or feared it may be, but, at all events, a look, a word, or a movement of the fan, was quite sufficient to preserve the most perfect order. I visited garden after garden in succession. Each was crowded with plants, some cultivated in pots and others in the open ground, many of which were entirely new to Europe, and of great interest and value. Every now and then my yakoneens informed me that the garden I happened to be in at the time was the last one in the lane, but I told them goodhumouredly I would go on a little further and satisfy myself. This they could not object to, and, as more gardens were found, they only smiled and said they had been misinformed. My old experience in China was of good service to me here. There is nothing like patience, politeness, and good humour, with these Orientals, whether they present themselves as noisy crowds or crafty officials. At first the proprietors were not quite sure whether they ought to sell me the plants which I selected. A reference was invariably made to the yakoneens, both upon this point and also as to what sum they should ask. I am afraid I must confess to the impression that these gentry made me pay considerably more than the fair value or "market price." As I concluded each purchase, the plants purchased, the price, and the name of the vendor, were carefully written down by one of the officials, and this report of my proceedings was taken home to their superiors. The day was far spent before I had finished the inspection of these interesting gardens, but I was greatly pleased with the results. A great number of new shrubs and trees, many of them probably well suited for our English climate, had been purchased. Orders were now given to the dif ferent nurserymen to bring the plants to the English Legation on the following day, and we parted mutually pleased with our bargains. It was now too late to go to Ogee or Su-mae-yah, so that journey was put off until another day. Mounting our horses, we left the pleasant and romantic lanes of Dang-o-zaka and rode homewards. In coming out we had passed to the south of the Tycoon's palace, but in going home a different route was taken-a route which led us along the north side of these buildings. In all my excursions about Yedo with a guard of yakoneens, I have invariably observed that they |