Articles used as food were displayed in abundance in all the streets of the commercial quarter. The vegetables and fruits of the country, such as I have named elsewhere, were in profusion everywhere, and apparently cheap. The bay supplies the good people of Yedo with excellent fish, and consequently the fishmonger was duly represented amongst the shopkeepers, where his wares could be purchased either dead or alive, fresh or salted. Butchers' shops were also observed as we rode along, showing that the Japanese do not live on vegetables and fish only. It is true that in these shops we did not observe any beef, for the Japanese do not kill their bullocks and eat them as we do; and, as the sheep is not found in the country, we, of course, could not see any mutton. Venison, however, was common, and monkeys were observed in several of the shops. I shall never forget the impression produced upon me when I saw the latter hanging up in front of a butcher's door. They were skinned, and had a most uncomfortable resemblance to the members of the human family. I dare say the Japanese consider the flesh of the monkey very savoury; but there is no accounting for prejudices and tastes, and I must confess that I must have been very hungry indeed before I could have dined off these human-looking monkeys.

In our ride through the town we remarked a large number of fire-proof houses, or godowns, for the protection of money or valuable goods in case of fire. These have thick walls of mud and stone,

124

NIPON-BAS AH-SAX-SAW.

CHAP. VIII.

and are most useful in a country like this, where fires occur so frequently. Wooden watch-towers were also numerous in all parts of the city. These are posts of observation, from which a fire can be observed at a distance and an alarm given. Buckets of water were seen in every street, and frequently on the tops of the houses; and a kind of fire-police are continually on the watch by night and by day, ready to give instant notice and assistance.

After riding in an easterly direction for some time, we arrived at the celebrated Nipon-Bas, or "Bridge of Japan." This crosses a canal which is fed by a river a little to the south of the bridge, and which is apparently connected with the moat which encircles the official quarter and the palace of the Tycoon. The bridge is a strong wooden structure resting on piles, and riveted together with massive clamps of iron. To a foreign eye there is nothing very remarkable in its appearance; but by the Japanese it is considered one of the wonders of Yedo. From this bridge the distances to all parts of the empire are measured in ri; and hence it is usual to say, such a place is so many ri distant—not from Yedo, but-from NiponBas. A ri is about equal to two and a half English miles.

A ride of about two hours brought us to Ah-saxsaw. Its massive temple was seen looming at the further end of a broad avenue. An ornamental arch, or gateway, was thrown across the avenue,

which had a very good effect; a huge belfry stood on one side; and a number of large trees, such as pines and Salisburia adiantifolia, surrounded the temple. Each side of the avenue was lined with shops and stalls, open in front like a bazaar, in which all sorts of Japanese things were exposed for sale. Toys of all kinds, such as humming-tops, squeaking-dolls with very large heads, puzzles, and pictures were numerous, and apparently in great demand. Looking-glasses, tobacco-pipes, common lacquer-ware, porcelain, and such like articles, were duly represented. Had the whole been covered over with glass, it would have been not unlike the Lowther Arcade in London. Crowds of people followed us as we entered the avenue, who had evidently seen little of Europeans before; but although somewhat noisy, they treated us with the most perfect civility and respect.

On our arrival at the head of the avenue, we found ourselves in front of the huge temple, and ascended its massive steps. Its wide doors stood open; candles were burning on the altars, and priests were engaged in their devotions. It was the old story over again—unmeaning sounds, beating of drums, tinkling of bells, &c., which I had so often heard when a guest in the Buddhist temples of China.

The temple has numerous tea-houses attached to it for the accommodation of visitors and devotees. Adjoining them are many pretty gardens with fish-ponds, ornamental bridges, artificial rock