146 THE AUCUBA. CHAP. IX. spines, exactly as we see on old holly-trees. All the species of Osmanthus have variegated varieties in Japan, many of which are very beautiful objects for garden decoration. The other genus to which I would call attention is the well-known Aucuba. In Europe we know only the variegated variety of Aucuba japonica, which is one of the most useful of our evergreens, inasmuch as it is perfectly hardy in our climate, and flourishes even in the smoke of large towns where our indigenous shrubs refuse to live. But in the shaded woods near the capital of Japan I met with the true species of Aucuba japonica, of which the variegated one of our gardens is, no doubt, only a variety. This species has beautiful shining leaves of the brightest green, and becomes covered, during the winter and spring months, with bunches of red berries, which give it a pretty appearance. In fact, the Aucuba of the woods near Yedo is the "Holly of Japan." I frequently met with hedges formed of this plant, which were very ornamental indeed. In the woods there are numerous varieties of both sexes, some of which show the faintest traces of variegation, while others are nearly as much marked as the Aucubas found in our English gardens. In addition to the Aucubas found in a wild state, I had, in this collection, several garden varieties, with distinct and beautiful variegation, and the male plant of our common garden species, to which I have alluded in an earlier chapter, the introduction of which is CHAP. IX. DIFFICULTY OF TRANSPORTING PLANTS. 147 likely to add much to the beauty and interest of that useful shrub, inasmuch as we may now expect to have it covered, during winter and spring, with a profusion of crimson berries. Many other species of interest might be named in the collection which I had now got together, but the above will suffice to show how fruitful the field for selection had been in and near the capital of Japan. From the list which I have given, no one will be surprised when he hears others tell of the lovely sylvan scenery of the Japanese islands. I have already endeavoured to give a faint idea of such scenery; and it was now my intention to transfer to Europe and America examples of those trees and shrubs which produce such charming effects in the Japanese landscapes. But the latter part of the business was no easy matter. To go from England to Japan was easy enough; to wander amongst those romantic valleys and undulating hills was pleasure unalloyed; to ransack the capital itself, although attended by an armed guard, was far from disagreeable; and to get together such a noble collection as I have just been describing was the most agreeable of all. The difficulty-the great difficulty-was to transport living plants from Yedo to the Thames, over stormy seas, for a distance of some 16,000 miles. But, thanks to my old friend Mr. Ward, even this difficulty can now be overcome by means of the well-known glass cases which bear his name. Ward's cases have been the means of enriching 148 WARD'S CASES. CHAP. IX. our parks and gardens with many beautiful exotics, which, but for this admirable invention, would never have been seen beyond those countries to which they are indigenous. In a foreign country, however, even Ward's cases cannot be made without some difficulty. The carpenter who contracted to make the framework of the cases would have nothing to do with the glazing, because he did not understand it. A Dutch carpenter, residing in Yokuhama, undertook to do the glazing, but unfortunately broke his diamond and could not procure another to cut the glass! Luckily, however, these difficulties were got over at last, and a sufficient number of cases were got ready to enable me to carry the collection on to China. The steam-ship England,' Captain Dundas, being about to return to Shanghae, I availed myself of the opportunity to go over to that port with my collections, in order to ship them for England, there being as yet no means of sending them direct from Japan. Mr. Veitch had also put his plants on board the same vessel, so that the whole of the poop was lined with glass cases crammed full of the natural productions of Japan. Never before had such an interesting and valuable collection of plants occupied the deck of any vessel, and most devoutly did we hope that our beloved plants might be favoured with fair winds and smooth seas, and with as little salt water as possible-a mixture to which they are not at all partial, and which sadly disagrees with their constitutions CHAPTER X. Adieu to Yokuhama - Views of Mount Fusi - The Kino Channel and Inland Sea Presents for the Queen - The port of Hiogo and town of Osaca Important marts for trade - Good anchorageCrowds of boats-Islands - Charming scenery - Daimios' castles - Towns and villages Gorgeous sunset - Village of Ino-sima — Terraced land—"The pilot's home" - River-like sea-Scenes on shore Clean and comfortable houses - Fortress of Meara-sama - Visit of officials - Their manners and customs - Gale of wind - Extraordinary harbour Southern Channel Ship ashore Two Jonahs on board Nagasaki in winter - Arrival at Shanghae -Plants shipped for England. ON the 17th of December, 1860, the good steam ship England,' in which I was passenger, weighed anchor and proceeded to sea. The wind, which had been blowing a gale the day before, was now light and fair, so that we were able to crowd on all sail and made rapid progress. The headlands which had lately been christened as “Mandarin Bluff" and "Treaty Point," were soon passed, and the pretty little towns of Yokuhama and Kanagawa were lost to our view in the distance. In the afternoon we passed Cape Sagami and the volcanic islands at the entrance of the Bay of Yedo, and were once more in the great Pacific Ocean. Cape Idsu-that stormy 150 THE HOLY MOUNTAIN. СНАР. Х. cape, the dread of mariners, but which, I am bound to say, has as yet treated me kindly-was also passed, and then darkness set in, and the fair land of Nipon was hidden from our eyes. On the following morning I was up and on deck before sunrise, and was well rewarded by the beauty of the scene. Landward, Fusiyama, or the "Holy Mountain," was seen towering high above all the other land, covered with snow of the purest white, and its summit already basking in the of the morning sun, although that luminary had not yet shown himself to the denizens of our lower world. Sailors and passengers alike looked often and long upon that lovely mountain, and it was with regret we watched it gradually disappear from our view and sink in the horizon. rays In the afternoon of this day we were abreast of Cape Oo-sima, and soon afterwards entered the Kino Channel, which lies between the islands of Sikok and Nipon, and leads into the Inland Sea. A reference to the map of Japan will give a better idea of the position of this sea than any description. No foreign vessel, except ships of war or transports, had been allowed to navigate its waters, and, as it had not been surveyed, it was necessary, in all cases, to obtain pilots from the Japanese Government before attempting the passage. The England' was not a ship of war nor in any way connected with the Government, and, in ordinary cases, would not have been permitted to pass through the sacred waters of the Inland Sea. But as Captain 6 |