ceased, and beyond all was barren or in a state of nature. One of our pilots informed us that he was a native of this place, and it was sketched immediately and romantically called "The Pilot's Home."

Our passage during the morning of this day had been straight and broad, and of easy navigation, even for a sailing vessel; but about 1 P.M. we entered a pass between some islands which was certainly not more than half a mile in width. Here the scenery was very remarkable, and perhaps the finest we had yet seen. Pretty villages, temples, and farm-houses were observed on every side of us. Now and then we passed a fertile valley, in a high state of cultivation, stretching far back amongst the hills. The houses, too, seemed to be nicely thatched and tiled, and had an air of comfort and cleanliness about them rarely seen in oriental countries. We appeared to be sailing down some smooth river, which every now and then widened or narrowed according to the formation of the land. Around us there were hills and mountains, of various heights and of every conceivable form. The lowest rose but a few feet above the water, while the highest seemed fully two thousand feet high. Here and there, in our progress, I observed a column of stone erected upon the top of a sunken rock to warn the mariner of the hidden danger. On one of the banks of this river-like sea a broad road was observed skirting the beach under an avenue of

M

162

FORTRESS OF MEARA-SAMA.

СНАР. Х.

trees. Our pilots informed us that this was a portion of the Tokaido, or imperial highway, which leads all the way from Yedo to Nagasaki. Sometimes the sea appeared completely land-locked, and resembled a lake with its bays and inlets; at other times it had the river-like appearance I have already noticed. Some of us compared it to Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, or the Kiles of Bute; but, although probably it had a partial resemblance to all these places in the Scottish Highlands, yet it had a character peculiarly its own.

In the afternoon we had a good view of the castle and fortress of Meara-sama, situated at the head of a deep bay. This castle is said to be remarkable in Japan for its great strength. It is supposed to be one of the strongest in the empire, and perfectly impregnable. A massive sea-wall was built along the sea-shore; while behind this wall were seen castles, turrets, and watchtowers, inhabited by this feudal chief and his numerous retainers. Leaving this bay and its stronghold on our right and to the westward, our course led us in a more southerly direction, the channel still narrow and winding. This part continued as populous as that which I have already noticed when we entered the "narrows," and large villages, composed of comfortable-looking houses-not densely packed together, but divided by fields and gardens-were everywhere seen along the shores.

In the evening we passed out into a wider part of the sea, and anchored for the night at a place

called Metari. Boats in large numbers, filled with wondering natives, had been sculling round us to get a sight of the ship that went ahead without wind or sails, and of the strange beings from some far-off foreign land who crowded her deck. While we were sitting at dinner, and speaking of the strange and beautiful scenery through which we had passed during the day, a messenger came on board to inform us that the high officers of the place were coming off to pay us a visit. In a few minutes three-quiet, modest-looking individuals were ushered into the cabin, and led up to the head of the table, where Captain Dundas was seated. They wanted to know whence we came, what we wanted, and whither we were bound-all of which questions, with many others, were answered to their entire satisfaction. They were then politely offered wine, biscuits, and sundry other things which were upon the table. Each of them tasted what was set before him, and then, pulling out a piece of paper, wrapped up in it the remainder of the solids, and thrust the parcel into his wide sleeve. Such is the custom of the country, and such is termed politeness in Japan. A numerous retinue of servants attended these high officials, all of whom were delighted with what was given to them, and begged for more! As these gentry took their departure, they intimated to us that an officer of a yet higher rank than theirs was coming on board. This personage presented himself soon afterwards, and, giving his swords to an