cymbals, and singing "Nam, nam, nam," and some such unmeaning sounds, with their voices--unmeaning to me at least, for I did not understand them. The service lasted, each day, for about an hour, including an interval when the worshippers refreshed themselves with sundry copious draughts of saki.

On the 2nd of July, having heard the tinkling and "nam, nam, nam" going on for some time, I walked into the court in front of the little temple, in order to see something of the ceremonies. After remaining a few minutes I returned to my own quarters, and was soon followed by the whole congregation, who came, I suppose, to return my visit. Some amongst them were old men who could scarcely walk, but the greater part were women and children. I received them politely, and allowed them to examine my clothes, books, and specimens of natural history. One lady took hold of my wristband, another handled the neck of my shirt, and a third examined the texture of my trousers. But the butterflies, beetles, and shells were to them most astonishing and incomprehensible. "Where could I have found such a number of these things?"-many of which they had never seen before. "What was I going to do with them? Was I going to eat them?" Those who were wiser than the rest informed the others that I was collecting these things to make medicine! And then some stated that I had been over all the country gathering these objects; that I had been paying money for them—a statement

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CHOICE OF WIVES OFFERED. CHAP. XIII.

which made some of them shake their wise heads, and evidently conclude that something was wrong with my "upper story." As all this was going on, the usual questions were put concerning my country, my age, and whether I was single or married. Many a goodhumoured joke was, no doubt, passed round amongst them at my expense; but as my knowledge of the language was very limited, it amused them without doing me any harm. Then the good ladies wanted my opinion regarding themselves, and one after another was laughingly brought forward-married and single without distinction-and proposed as a helpmate. I took all this in good part, and eventually my visitors were reminded it was time to go back to their devotions. Then came a long series of "Hé hés" and polite bowings, with many expressions of thanks, and I was left alone in my temple.

After leaving me, the congregation returned to the little temple in which they had been worshipping; and the singing, with the tinkling of bells and cymbals, went on as before. All at once the sounds ceased, and I concluded that the services of the day were over. In this, however, I was mistaken; for shortly afterwards I heard sounds of merriment, very different from those devotional ones which had preceded them. I was therefore induced to visit the congregation a second time, in order to satisfy my curiosity. When I reached the court in front of the temple a curious scene presented itself to my eyes. There was the same congregation in the same room in which they had been so devout a short time before, now engaged drinking saki, and already-judging from the loud laugh which was going round, and the boisterous merriment somewhat under its influence. When I was perceived in front of the door the intelligence was quickly passed round the room, and I was received by the assembly with a scream of delight. The hospitality of these people, in so far as saki was concerned, was boundless; and many invitations were given me to join the various groups, and to pledge them in cups of the favourite national stimulant. As saki, however, is not a favourite of mine, I respectfully refused their offers, with many thanks, and considered that the most prudent course for me to pursue, under the circumstances, would be to beat a retreat. But if I had any fears that this little carousal would end unpleasantly, these

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CONCLUSION OF SERVICE.

CHAP. XIII.

fears were perfectly groundless. At an appointed time the priests appeared in their robes of office, the saki which remained unconsumed was put away, the countenances of the congregation changed from gay to grave some of them, it is true, were a little more ruddy than before-and the religious services again commenced. The officiating priest led off, and was followed by his little congregation; and the "Nam-nam-nam-ing," and tinkling of bells and cymbals, were kept up for about another hour. At the end of this time the people left the temple, and returned quietly to their homes.

CHAPTER XIV.

Journey into the country- Fine views by the way - Town of Kanasawa- Our inn- Visit to a temple-The visitors' book - Crowds in front of the inn-Their manners and customs --Japanese bedrooms- · Natural productions - Uncultivated land- Remarks on the extent of population in Japan - Fine views-Kamakura the ancient capital-An insane woman- Her extraordinary conduct -Our inn at Kamakura - Large bronze image its interiorCrowds and their behaviour - A tiffin and a siesta - Visit to the temples of Kamakura - The sacred stone - Yuritomo's tomb - A page from Japanese history - Return to Kanagawa.

A FEW miles south from Yokuhama there is a pretty town named Kanasawa, and a little farther on is Kamakura, said to be the ancient capital of Japan. I had frequently heard of the beauty of these places, and more particularly of the scenery by which they were surrounded; and I therefore determined to visit them, and set out for this purpose on the 4th of July. On this occasion I was accompanied by Dr. Dickson from China, and Messrs. Ross and Hope, merchants in Yokuhama. The first part of our road led us up through a beautiful valley, with richly-wooded hills dipping into it on either side, and giving it a pleasing and irregular outline. On the edges of this valley there were many cottages and farm-houses, and now and then we passed pretty glens which led up amongst the