372

CHIEF FEATURES OF PEKING. CHAP. XXII.

and for its high and massive walls, ramparts, and watch-towers. Its straight and wide streets are different from those of any other Chinese town which has come under my observation. Its imperial palaces, summer-houses, and temples, with their quaint roofs and yellow tiles, are very striking objects; and the number of private dwellings, situated amongst trees and gardens surrounded with high walls, give a country or park-like appearance to the great city. The trees and gardens of the palaces, with King-shan, or "Prospect Hill," are objects of considerable interest, as is also the Lama mosque, suggesting, as it does, some connexion in times long gone by with Thibet or India.

CHAPTER XXIII.

A journey to the mountains-Long trains of camels and donkeys — Pagoda at Pale-twang - Large cemetery - Curious fir-tree Agricultural productions - Country people - Reach the foot of the hills Temples of Pata-tshoo - Foreign writing on a wall-A noble oak-tree discovered - Ascend to the top of the mountains - Fine views Visit from mandarins - Early morning view Return to Peking - Descend the Pei-ho-Sail for ShanghaeArrange and ship my collections Arrive in Southampton.

ONE of the principal objects I had in view in coming thus far north was to get a peep at the capital of China. Another inducement, and perhaps a greater one, was the hope of being able to add some new plants of an ornamental kind to my former collections. And considering the cold winters which are experienced in this part of the world, anything of that kind would have been almost certain to prove hardy in our English climate. As the nursery-gardens I had visited both at Tien-tsin and Peking were filled with well-known southern species, and as the plain through which I had passed was nearly all under cultivation and contained few trees, I was anxious to visit the mountains which bound this plain on the north and west, where I hoped to find something new to reward me for my long journey.

374 SUDDEN CHANGE OF TEMPERATURE. CHAP. XXIII.

Amongst these western mountains there are some celebrated Buddhist temples, well known to the inhabitants of Peking, and often visited by them. The Buddhist priests, in all parts of the East, preserve with the greatest care the trees which grow around their houses and temples. It was therefore probable that those at Pata-tshoothe name of the place in question-would have the same tastes as their brethren in other parts of the empire, and I determined to visit them in their mountain home.

Having engaged a cart for the journey, I had it packed with my bedding in the usual way, and started one morning at daybreak. Atmospheric changes are very sudden in this part of the world. The temperature, since my arrival in Peking, and even when I went to bed the night before, had been mild and warm, although not oppressive in any way. This morning, however, a north-west wind had come suddenly down, and the summer seemed to change instantly into winter. The wind was bitterly cold. Sudden changes of temperature are common in every part of China, but I never experienced such a change as this was. Greatcoats and blankets, which would have pained one to look upon a few days before, were now most welcome, and were eagerly sought after.

As I preferred walking to being jolted in a springless cart, this change of temperature was far from being disagreeable. Passing out by the Fow-ching-mun-a gate in the western wall of

the Tartar city-and through an extensive suburb, I then found myself on a country road. It was evidently the great highway between Peking and the countries to the westward. Long trains of camels and donkeys were met and passed, loaded with various kinds of merchandise. These camels were very fine animals, and much larger and apparently much stronger than those met with in Egypt and Arabia. They were covered with long hair, which is, no doubt, intended by nature to preserve them from the extreme cold of these northern regions. The tuft of long hair on the hump had a peculiar appearance as the animals moved along in the distance. One of the camels in each drove had a bell suspended from its neck, which emitted a clear tinkling sound.

About nine o'clock in the morning I arrived at a long straggling town named Pale-twang, and halted to breakfast at an inn on the road-side. This place is remarkable for a pagoda about 150 feet in height, which can be seen from the ramparts of Peking, forming an excellent landmark to the traveller on this wide plain. This pagoda is octagonal, having eaves projecting on all sides, on which are hung many thousands of little bells, which are always tinkling in the wind. Its lower sides are covered with figures of ancient warriors, gods, and dragons, and heads of all sorts of animals appear to support the walls. Altogether it is one of the most remarkable specimens of Chinese architecture that have come under my

376

LARGE CEMETERY.

CHAP. XXIII.

observation. Four small temples are placed round its base, in two of which are some figures representing Buddhist deities, and in the other two there are tablets with inscriptions. A large temple in a ruinous condition is placed between the tower and the main road.

A little further on I came to a large cemetery surrounded with high walls. As I was making some inquiries about this place, an old Chinese gentleman kindly volunteered to accompany me over it, and to explain anything I wished to know. When we entered this cemetery I was very much struck with its appearance. It covered many

acres of land, and was evidently a very ancient place. Broad walks intersected it at right angles, and lofty trees of Juniper, Cypress, and Pine were growing in avenues or shading the tombs. Here was an example of taste and civilization which existed at a very early period,-probably two or three hundred years ago. When the nations of Europe were crowding their dead in the dismal churchyards of populous towns, and polluting the air, the Chinese, whom we have been accustomed to look upon as only half-civilized, were forming pleasant cemeteries in country places, and planting them with trees and flowers. They were doing ages ago in China what we have been doing only of late years.

At the upper end of the cemetery, and forming a termination to the broad avenues, I observed some large marble tablets, supported by the tor