of our long absence and the darkness of the night. We might have lost our way or missed our footing amongst the mountains and ravines. However, an excellent Chinese dinner was soon smoking on the table; and although chopsticks had to supply the places of knives and forks, the air of the mountains had furnished me with a tolerable appetite, and made me quite indifferent to the deprivation. After dinner I was honoured with the company of some high officials of the district, who came to inquire what my objects were in visiting this part of the country; but as my servant had already informed them that I had come from the Yamun of the great English Minister, they were easily satisfied, and did not even ask for a sight of my passport. Sundry cigars and a glass or two of wine put them in capital humour, and we parted very good friends.

When the mandarins left me the priests and others in the temple retired to rest, and shortly afterwards the only sounds which fell upon my ear were caused by the wind rustling among the leaves of the surrounding trees and the tinkling of the bells which hung from the eaves of the pagoda. Fatigued with the exertion of the day I retired early to rest, and nothing occurred during the night to disturb my slumbers.

Next morning I was up before the sun, and enjoyed a view of the vast plain as it was gradually lighted up by the early rays. It was curious to see the light chasing away the darkness and ex

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RETURN TO PEKING.

CHAP. XXIII.

posing to view the pagodas, bridges, and towers which but a short time before had been invisible. During the day I visited some temples and gardens on the other side of a valley, and secured a supply of the plants of the district for the herbarium, and the seeds of several trees of an ornamental and useful character worth introducing into Europe. The people amongst these hills seemed to be a quiet and inoffensive race, miserably poor, having only the bare necessaries of life and none of its luxuries. The Buddhist priests were apparently much better off, being, no doubt, upheld and supported by their devotees among the wealthier classes of the capital, who came to enjoy the scenery amongst the hills and to worship in the temples.

After a pleasant sojourn of two days in this part of the country I returned to Peking. As on the way out, long trains of donkeys and camels were met and passed on the road, many of them being laden with coal, which is found in abundance amongst these western hills. On the way back I paid another visit to the cemetery of Pale-twang, and obtained a fresh supply of the seeds of the curious fir-tree I have already described.

Having finished my work in Peking and packed up the collections I had formed there, I left that city on the 28th of September, and considered myself as once more "homeward bound." My friend Dr. Lockhart accompanied me several miles on my way. With many good wishes for a

prosperous voyage home the worthy medical missionary bade me adieu, and returned to his arduous duties in the far-famed capital of Cathay. As it was my intention to return to Tien-tsin by boat down the Pei-ho river, I had taken the road which leads from Peking to the city of Tong-chow, at which place boats were to be procured for the voyage. A short distance on the north-west of Tong-chow I passed the now celebrated bridge and battle-field of Pali-kao. On arriving at Tong-chow I found no difficulty in engaging a boat, and we sailed rapidly and pleasantly down the stream.

As opportunities for leaving Tien-tsin for the south were few and uncertain, I had to remain some days there before I could get onwards. At last, owing to the kindness of the French commandant at Taku, I procured a passage in the despatch boat Contest,' and reached Shanghae on the 20th of October. Here I found my Japanese collections (which I had left in Mr. Webb's garden) in excellent condition, and I employed the next fortnight in preparing them for their long voyage home round the Cape of Good Hope. The collections were divided into two equal portions, and, as a precautionary measure, were put on board of two ships. These cases have now reached England, and nearly every plant of importance has been introduced alive. Long shelves filled with these rare and valuable trees and shrubs of Japan have been exhibited during the last two summers by Mr. Standish at the different botanical

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VOYAGE HOME.

CHAP. XXIII.

and horticultural exhibitions in the metropolis, and already many of the earlier introductions have been distributed all over Europe.

own care.

Some especial favourites, which I did not like to trust to the long sea journey round the Cape, were brought home by the overland route under my One of these is a charming little saxifrage, having its green leaves beautifully mottled and tinted with various colours of white, pink, and rose. This will be invaluable for growing in hanging baskets in greenhouses or for window gardening. I need not tell now how I managed my little favourites on the voyage home; how I guarded them from stormy seas, and took them on shore for fresh air at Hongkong, Ceylon, and Suez; how I brought them through the land of Egypt and onwards to Southampton. More than one of my fellow-passengers by that mail will remember my movements with these two little hand greenhouses. On the 2nd of January, 1862, the Peninsular and Oriental Company's ship' Ceylon,' Captain Evans, steamed into the dock at Southampton, and thus ends the narrative of my visit to Zipangu and Cathay.