36

TOYS MAPS.

CHAP. II.

side them, whose heads, tails, and feet were in constant motion; humming-tops, with a number of trays inside, which all came out and spun round on the table when the top was set in motion; and a number of funny things in boxes like little bits of wood shavings, which perform the most curious antics when thrown into a basin containing water. Dolls of the most fascinating kind, with large, shaved, bobbing heads, crying out most lustily when pressed upon the stomach, were also met with in cartloads. One little article, so small one could scarcely see it, when put upon hot charcoal, gradually seemed to acquire life and animation, and moved about for all the world like a brilliant caterpillar. This large trade in toys shows us how fond the Japanese are of their children.

In one of the main streets there is a shop with an extensive collection of books, maps, charts, plain and coloured, for sale. A good map of the city of Yedo may be had here; but the inquirer for such a thing is invariably taken into a back room, when he is told that if the authorities knew of such a thing being sold the vendor would get his head taken off. To those who are ignorant of the language, a peculiar motion of the hand about the region of the neck explains the shopkeeper's meaning. This is a good stroke of policy, as it enables the seller to obtain a higher price for the map, and sends the lucky purchaser off highly delighted with his bargain. In the same shop I met with some really good illustrated books, con

taining views of the country and people about Miaco and Yedo, the two most famous cities in Japan. The former is the residence of the Mikado or Spiritual Emperor, and the latter that of the Ziogoon or Tycoon. In the art of drawing or sketching, the Japanese are far inferior to ourselves, but they are greatly in advance of the Chinese. Although foreigners have been only a short time residing in Yokuhama, their appearance, customs, and manners are faithfully represented by the Japanese artists. Here are to be found pictures of men and women-rather caricatures it must be confessed-engaged in amusements peculiar to highly civilized nations. Ladies riding on horseback, or walking-duly encompassed with a wonderful amount of crinoline-are fairly represented. Scenes in the Gan-ke-ro-a place got up by the Government for the amusement of foreigners --are also portrayed in a manner not particularly flattering to our habits and customs. Boisterous mirth, indulgence in wine and strong drinks, and the effects thereof upon those who are inclined to be quarrelsome, are all carefully depicted. Altogether, some very curious and instructive works of Japanese art may be picked up in shops of this description.

Opposite to the bookshop just noticed there is a menagerie containing a variety of animals for sale. In this place I remarked some extraordinarylooking monkeys, which appear to be a source of great attraction and amusement to the natives.

38

THE GAN-KE-RO.

CHAP. II.

Little dogs were plentiful, and particularly noisy when a foreigner approached them. Then there were examples of deer, the eagle of the country, and singing birds of various kinds in cages. But the different varieties of fowls struck me more than anything else. The kind which I had already seen at Nagasaki was here also, and in addition a pure white bird with a fine long arched tail and long silky feathers hanging down from each side of the back. This is a very beautiful bird, and well worth being introduced into Europe if it is not already here.

The Gan-ke-ro, to which I have already alluded, is a large building at the back of the town, erected by the Government for the amusement of foreigners. Here, dinners, suppers, and plays, can always be "got up on the shortest notice." In other respects this and the buildings in the surrounding neighbourhood are much like the tea-houses in the town of Nagasaki. Scenes of debauchery and drunkenness are common, and even murder is not infrequent. Over such matters one would willingly draw a veil; but truth must be told in order to correct the impression which some persons have of Japan-namely, that it is a very Garden of Eden, and its inhabitants as virtuous as Adam and Eve before the fall.

The country in the vicinity of Yokuhama is very beautiful in its general features. It is evidently of volcanic origin. It consists of low hills and small valleys: the former having their sloping

sides covered with trees and brushwood, and their summits, which form a kind of table-land, all under cultivation. The valleys are very fertile, and, having a good supply of water, are generally used for the cultivation of rice.

The geological structure of this part of Japan is well worthy of notice. In my walks in the country I came upon a little hill with perpendicular sides, thus forming a convenient object for observation. The following is its formation in layers :

1st layer. Vegetable soil: black, resembling peat. Shells 2 to 3 feet in thickness. Oysters and other sea shells.

2nd

4th

5th

Gravel.

Light-coloured clay, with pumice-stone and shells.

Blueish-coloured clay, with pumice-stone and shells.

The Yokuhama cliffs are from 60 to 100 feet in height, nearly perpendicular, and their structure is as follows:

1st layer. Black peaty-looking soil, evidently containing much vegetable matter.

3rd 4th

Red earth much mixed with gravel.

Gravel.

Hard clay. This is intersected here and there with a layer of gravel, and sometimes with a layer of shells, principally oysters. The shells are seen sticking on the surface of this layer in all directions. Charred wood and pumicestone are also met with in the clay.

Springs of excellent water are abundant on all the hill-sides. Some of them are deliciously cool even in the hottest days of summer, and afford a refreshing draught to the weary traveller.

40

KANAGAWA.

CHAP. III.

CHAPTER III.

Town of Kanagawa - The Imperial highway-Travellers upon itPrinces Pack-horses · Mendicant priests — Blind men &c.

-

Beggars,

Visit to the temple of Bokengee-The umbrella pine-treeSintoo temples - Scenery Thatched roofs - Valuable elmThe farmer and his chrysanthemums - Tomi - His one faultTemple of To-rin-gee Scenery by the way -Thujopsis dolabrata -Farm-houses - Tea-plant- -Fruit-trees Yedo vine-Vegetables Trees and shrubs of the district The male aucuba Geological features.

THE port of Kanagawa, named in the treaty as the location of foreigners, is situated on the northern side of a deep bay or inlet; Yokuhama being placed on its southern shore. The consuls of the different Treaty powers were living in temples on the Kanagawa side at the time of my arrival; and as an old friend of mine, Mr. José Loureira, the manager for Messrs. Dent and Co., of China, who was also consul for Portugal and France, was residing there, he kindly offered me quarters in his temple during my stay. Nothing could have suited me better than this arrangement. There was plenty of room, both in the house and in the garden, for any collections of natural history which I might get together; and I was on the highway to Yedo, and in the midst of a most fertile and interesting country.