Kanagawa is a long narrow town stretching for several miles along the shore of the bay, and having one principal street, and that the Tokaido or great highway of Japan. The place is mentioned in the books of the old Dutch travellers, and is said by them to contain about six hundred houses, and to be twenty-four miles from the capital. It is probably about this distance from the Nipon Bas, or bridge in Yedo, from which distances are measured to all parts of the empire; but it is not more than sixteen or eighteen miles. from the western end of the city of Yedo. It contains a great number of inns and tea-houses; and here the Dutch generally slept on the last night of their journey overland from Nagasaki to Yedo. On the following day they entered the capital. The shops are generally poor and mean, and contain few articles except the mere necessaries of life. A little way back from the main street, at intervals all the way along the town, are Buddhist temples and cemeteries. These temples are often found in the most charming situations, and they are the finest and most substantial buildings in Kanagawa. In some instances they are surrounded with pretty gardens, containing specimens of the favourite flowers of the country. It is in some of these temples that the consuls of the Treaty powers have been located. The good priests do not object to find quarters of an inferior kind both for themselves and for their gods, providing they are well paid for their trouble in turning out.

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THE IMPERIAL HIGHWAY.

CHAP. III.

The Tokaida, or great highway of the country, is thronged all day long with people going to or returning from the capital. Every now and then a long train of the servants and armed retainers of one of the Daimios-lords or princes of the empire-may be seen covering the road for miles. It is not unusual for a cortége of this kind to occupy two or three hours in passing by. Men run before and call upon the people to fall down upon their knees to do honour to the great man, nor do they call in vain. All the people on both sides of the way drop down instantly on their knees, and remain in this posture until the norimon or palanquin of the prince has passed by. A Daimio's procession is made up in the following manner :-First comes the prince himself in his norimon, followed by his horse and retainers, armed with swords, spears, and matchlocks; then follow a number of coolies, each carrying two lacquered boxes slung across his shoulder on bamboo pole. After these again there is another norimon, with an official of some kind; then more coolies with boxes, more retainers, and The number of the followers is often very large, and depends upon and is regulated by the wealth and rank of the Daimio.

so on.

Kæmpfer informs us "that it is the duty of the princes and lords of the empire, as also of the governors of imperial cities and crown lands, to go to court once a year to pay their homage and respect. They are attended, going and returning,

STREET IN KANAGAWA.-THE TOKAIDO OR IMPERIAL HIGHWAY.

Page 42.

by their whole court, and travel with a pomp and magnificence, becoming as well their own quality and riches as the majesty of the powerful monarch whom they are going to see. The train of some of the most eminent fills up the road for some days."

If two or more of these Daimios should chance to be travelling the same road, at the same time, they would prove a great hindrance to one another, particularly if they should happen to meet at the same post-house or village. This is avoided by giving timely notice, and by engaging the inns and post-houses a month or six weeks beforehand. The time of their intended arrival is also notified in all the cities, villages, and hamlets, by putting up small boards on high poles of bamboo, signifying in a few characters what day of the month such and such a lord will be at that place to dine and sleep there.

When the retinue of the great man has passed by, the stream of every-day life flows on along the great Tokaido as before. No carts are used on this part of the road. Everything is carried on pack-horses, and these are passing along the road in great numbers all day long. Each horse is loaded with a pile of boxes and packages—a formidable size oftentimes, surmounted by a man in a large broad-brimmed straw hat, who, from his exalted position, is guiding the movements of his horse. Generally, however, when passing through towns, the horses are led by the drivers. In addi