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CHAP. IV.

THE YAKONEENS.

75

given up to them as their places of residence. These gardens are all remarkable for azaleas of extraordinary size, which have been kept carefully clipped; and if they are covered with flowers in the spring, as I believe they are, they must be indeed charming objects to look upon.

The gardens and grounds of the Legation are surrounded by a high wooden fence, and the gates are guarded by armed yakoneens. If any of the members of the Legation or their visitors pass out of this enclosure, they are immediately followed by some of these men. If the foreigner prefers a walk they walk after him; or if he goes out on horseback they follow in the same style. For some time this proceeding was thought to be quite unnecessary, and it was supposed that these men acted merely as spies, to report all the doings of the foreigners. The Japanese Government have always maintained that the system was necessary for our protection; and although it has no doubt signally failed in some instances, as for example, in the case of poor Mr. Heuskin the American interpreter, yet I have no doubt in my own mind that many lives have been saved by means of it. In so far as the Government is concerned, I believe there is every desire to prevent disturbances with foreigners, and this is one of the means it uses to accomplish that object.

At the time of my visit there were an unusually large number of foreigners living in Yedo. In addition to the members of the English, French,

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and American Legations, whose countries had already made treaties with Japan, there was a deputation from Prussia engaged in making a treaty for that country, and a number of American officers who had come out in the Niagara' with the Japanese ambassadors. Everything was going on quietly; and although a short time before Mr. Alcock's servant-a Japanese-had been murdered, and an attempt had been made upon the life of a Frenchman in the service of the French Consul-General, the impression was, that these men were probably not altogether blameless, and had brought such punishments upon themselves. Be that as it may, no one seemed to have any hesitation in moving about, and I thus had an opportunity of seeing all the most remarkable parts of the city, as well as many suburban places of great interest. It is true that we were always followed by the guard of yakoneens, but one had only to fancy himself a person of great importance -a prince or a noble in the far East-and this body-guard was easily endured. I found them always perfectly civil, and often of great use in showing me the right road.

CHAP. V.

THE CITY OF YEDO.

77

CHAPTER V.

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The city of Yedo - Hill of the god Atango-Magnificent view of the city from its summit. "Official quarter"- Broad streets --Castles of the feudal princes - The inner circle- Moats and massive walls -Clumps of trees No embrasure or guns visible - Use of the moats and ramparts Murder of the Regent or Gotiro-Fate of the murderers - The Harikari - Castle of the Emperor - Kæmpfer's description "Belle Vue" - Population of Yedo-Size of the city.

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On the day after my arrival in Yedo Mr. Alcock was good enough to invite me to accompany him. in a ride through some of the most interesting parts of the city. The Legation is situated in the south-west suburb, and the main portion of the great city lies to the eastward from our starting point. There was nothing to indicate to a stranger the point where the western suburb ended and the city commenced; indeed, as it has been justly observed, "the suburb of Sinagawa merges into Yedo much in the same way as Kensington straggles into London." Taking then an easterly course, a portion of our road led us through lanes fringed with fields and gardens, and through streets somewhat resembling those of a country town in England. During the first part of our route there was nothing particularly striking to attract our

attention. Soon, however, we arrived at a spot of great interest. This was a little hill, one of the highest of the many hills which are dotted about all over the city. Its name was Atango-yama, which means the "Hill of the god Atango." On its summit there is a temple erected to the idol, and a number of arbours where visitors, who come either for worship or for pleasure, can be supplied with cups of tea.

Leaving our horses at the foot of the hill, we ascended it by a long flight of stone steps, which were laid from the base to the summit. When we arrived at the top of the steps, we found ourselves in front of the temple and its surrounding arbours. Here we were waited upon by blooming damsels, and invited to partake of sundry cups of hot tea. But the temple, the arbours, and even our fair waiting-maids, were for the time disregarded as we gazed upon the vast and beautiful city which lay below us spread out like a vast panorama. Until now I had formed no adequate idea of the size of

the capital of Japan. Before leaving China I had heard stories of its great size, and of its population of two millions; but I confess I had great doubts as to the truth of these reports, and thought it not improbable that, both as to size and population, the accounts of Yedo might be much exaggerated. But now I looked upon the city with my own eyes, and they confirmed all that I had been previously told.

Looking back to the south-west over the wooded

CHAP. V.

VIEW OF THE CITY OF YEDO.

79

suburb of Sinagawa from which we had just come, and gradually and slowly carrying our eyes to the south and on to the east, we saw the fair city of Yedo extending for many miles along the shores of the bay, in the form of a crescent or half-moon. It was a beautiful autumnal afternoon, and very pretty this queen of cities looked as she lay basking in the sun. The waters of the bay were smooth as glass, and were studded here and there with the white sails of fishing-boats and other native craft; a few island batteries formed a breastwork for the protection of the town; and far away in the distance some hills were dimly seen on the opposite shores. Turning from the east towards the north, we looked over an immense valley covered with houses, temples, and gardens, and extending far away almost to the horizon. A wide river, spanned by four or five wooden bridges, ran through this part of the town and emptied itself into the bay.

On the opposite side of a valley, some two miles wide and densely covered with houses, we saw the palace of the Tycoon and the "official quarter" of the city, encircled with massive stone walls and deep moats. Outside of this there are miles of wide straight streets and long substantial barnlooking buildings, which are the town residences of the feudal princes and their numerous retainers.

To the westward our view ranged over a vast extent of city, having in the background a chain of wooded hills, whose sloping sides were covered with houses, temples, and trees. A large and

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