88

CASTLE OF THE EMPEROR.

CHAP. V.

Now and then we met or passed a Daimio, or official of rank, accompanied by his train of retainers, armed with swords, spears, and matchlocks, and with the usual amount of luggage, large umbrellas, led horses, and other signs of his rank.

No foreign visitor to Yedo is allowed to enter the sacred precincts of the inner enclosure which we were now riding round. A short time before this, a portion of the palace of the Emperor had been burned down, and it was now being rebuilt. Judging from the part of it which came under my observation in the distance, it did not seem a very imposing structure. Kæmpfer Kæmpfer writes in glowing terms of the palace of his day: "It had a tower many stories high, adorned with roofs and other curious ornaments, which make the whole castle look, at a distance, magnificent beyond expression, amazing the beholders, as do also the many other beautiful bended roofs, with gilt dragons at the top, which cover the rest of the buildings within the castle." As this work, however, professes only to give the reader a description of what came under my own observation, I must leave to others the description of the interior of the Tycoon's castle.

We had approached the citadel on the south, passed round it to the eastward, and were now on a rising ground on the north. Here another of those splendid views over the city and bay was obtained. This point has been named "Belle

Vue" by foreigners, and deservedly so. It would be a mere repetition of what I saw from the "Hill of Atango" to describe the scene which we now again beheld. Suffice it to say, that a vast city, bounded on one side by a beautiful bay, and on the other by the far off horizon, lay spread out beneath us. The land appeared studded all over with gardens; undulating ground and little hills were dotted about in every direction, crowned with evergreen trees, such as oaks and pines, and, although it was now far on in November, there was nothing to indicate the winter time in Yedo.

The population of this fine city has been estimated at about two millions of souls. The extent of ground covered by Yedo, and the main parts of its suburbs, has been stated by Kampfer, on Japanese authority,' to be about sixteen English miles long, twelve broad, and fifty in circumference. Judging from a native map of the city now before me, and from having ridden through it in all directions, I think the following is about its true size: From the southern suburb of Sinagawa to the north-eastern suburb the distance is about twelve miles, and from east to west it is about eight miles. Of course miles of extensive suburbs lie beyond these points, but these must be looked upon as being in the country and not in the town.

We could have lingered long on Mount "Belle Vue," and gazed upon the beautiful panorama which lay before us; but the last rays of an autumnal sun reminded us that it was time to

90

RETURN TO THE LEGATION.

CHAP. V.

return home. Having completed the circle of the Tycoon's castle, we took a southerly course; and winding our way through streets which sometimes led us over little hills, sometimes through lanes and gardens, we in due time reached the gates of the British Legation.

A Yedo Gentleman, with Servant carrying Sword, and Custom-house Officer with Fan

CHAPTER VI.

-

The country round Yedo― Hill and valley Trees Autumnal foliage Views of Fusi-yama - Cottages and farm-houses - Flowers and vegetables Signs of high civilization Public baths - Beautiful lanes and hedges - Avenues and groves-Civility of the people Dogs and their prejudices - Street dogs - LapdogsFire at the British Legation - Mode of giving alarm - Organization of Fire-brigade — Wretched engines — Presents from foreign governMore suitable ones pointed out.

ments

DURING my stay in Yedo I made many excursions into the surrounding country sometimes on horseback, and at other times on foot-but invariably accompanied with a guard of yako

neens.

If the reader will accompany me on one of these excursions, I shall endeavour to show him something of the country, as I have already done of the town. Our road leads us to the westward, and we are soon clear of the straggling suburb of Sinagawa. The land is undulating in its general features, and consists of a succession of hills and valleys. The valleys are low and flat, and capable of being irrigated by the streams which flow down from the surrounding hills. Rice is the staple crop of these low lands, and it was now of a yellow hue and ready for the reaping-hook of the farmer. The hills which encircle

92

VIEWS OF FUSI-YAMA.

CHAP. VI.

the valleys are covered with brushwood and lofty trees. Here the gigantic Cryptomeria japonica, the noble pine, and the evergreen oak are peculiarly at home. Clumps of bamboos and the palm of the country (Chamaerops excelsa) give a sort of tropical character to the scenery. The vivid hues of the autumnal foliage are most striking, and produce a wonderful and beautiful effect upon the landscape. The sumach and various species of maples have now put on their varied shades of colour-yellow, red, and purple; the leaves of the azalea are changing into a deep, glowing crimson; and these masses of "all hues" contrast well with the green foliage of the oaks and pines. As the eye wanders over these valleys and hills, it rests at last on a conical mountain in the background, some 14,000 feet in height, and nearly covered with snow: this is Fusi-yama, the holy mountain of Japan. It would certainly be difficult in all the world to find a scene of greater natural beauty than this.

As we rode onwards we passed many snug little suburban residences, farm-houses, and cottages, having little gardens in front containing a few of the favourite flowering-plants of the country. A remarkable feature in the Japanese character is, that, even to the lowest classes, all have an inherent love for flowers, and find in the cultivation of a few pet plants an endless source of recreation and unalloyed pleasure. If this be one of the tests of a high state of