Return to Japan - Kite-flying at Nagasaki - Spring flowers

Field

crops - Gale of wind in Van Dieman's Strait Arrive at Yoku-

hama - Insect and shell collecting - Reported difficulty in getting

assistance from the natives How to manage Orientals - Rare

beetle Dr. Adams's account of its capture-Curious mode of

catching fish-Visit Kanagawa - Agriculture in spring - Paddy

cultivation Mode of manuring the land Winter crops nearly

ripe-Trees and flowers-"The Queen of the Primroses"

-

CHAPTER XII.

-

-

Page 171

Invitation from the American Minister to visit Yedo- - Inland road

Nanka-nobu tea-garden Extraordinary Glycine - Pleasant lanes

and hedges-Civility of the people- Arrive at the American

Legation Guard and spies - Large tree Unpleasant diplomatic

correspondence Nursery gardens in the country visited-Summer

flowers and new plants - Return to Yedo- A ride in the country

- Mr. Heuskin's tomb - "Temple of Twelve Altars" - Poets'

Avenue - How a drunken Japanese makes himself sober - Shoeing

horses Departure from Yedo General remarks on the city and

suburbs

-

187

CHAPTER XIII.

Return to Kanagawa — Moxa and acupuncture-Mode of performing

these operations Their supposed value

-

-

-

Prospects of better

-

medical and surgical knowledge in Japan Roadside altar-

Ladies at their prayers- The conclusion of the ceremony - Field

crops and spring flowers at the end of May - Commencement of

rains Beautiful rainbow A violent earthquake Burning

rape-stalks for manure — An English strawberry found - New

plants discovered - Vegetables and fruit in the markets-Entomo-

logical notices-Land shells - A Buddhist congregation - Their

mode of worship-Amusing visit from the congregation - An

interval in the service-Its conclusion

203

CHAPTER XIV.

Journey into the country - Fine views by the way - Town of Kana-

sawa — Our inn - Visit to a temple-The visitors' book - Crowds

in front of the inn Their manners and customs

rooms

---

Natural productions - Uncultivated land - Remarks on

the extent of population in Japan - Fine views Kamakura the

ancient capital

- An insane woman - Her extraordinary conduct

-Our inn at Kamakura - Large bronze image - Its interior -

Crowds and their behaviour A tiffin and a siesta-Visit to the

temples of Kamakura- The sacred stone - Yuritomo's tomb - A

page from Japanese history Return to Kanagawa

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Page 221

Assassinations

--

CHAPTER XV.

- Supposed causes -The innocent suffer for the guilty

-Japanese desire for revenge-Midnight attack on H. B. M.

Legation The scene next morning - Supposed reasons for the

attack Document found on a prisoner Its translation

Opinions of Japanese ministers - True reasons for the attack-

Instigators known Weakness of government Causes of its

weakness Its sincerity - The difficulties it has to encounter -

Murder of Mr. Richardson - News of a revolution in Yedo 241

-

..

CHAPTER XVI.

Climate of Japan — Dr. Hepburn's tables — Hottest and coldest months

- Monsoons- Gales of wind-The rainy season - Earthquakes

Agriculture - Rank of the farmer-Rocks and soil - Cultiva-

tion of winter crops

Seed-time and harvest - Curious mode of

harvesting-Summer crops on dry land

-

Manures Crops requiring irrigation

Other crops Animals few in number

seasons

-

CHAPTER XVII.

Other productions of Japan-Silk, tea, &c. Silk country- Value

of silk Tea districts Curious statements on tea cultivation-

Value of exports from Kanagawa in 1860-61 - Means of increasing

the supplies of silk and tea Prospects on the opening of the new

ports-Japanese objections to the opening - The Tycoon's letter to

the Queen Ministers' letter to Mr. Alcock-Their recommenda-

tions considered — Danger of opening Yedo at present - Remarks

on the other ports Trade probably overrated-Japanese mer-

-

-

-

chants compared with Chinese - Prejudices against traders in

Japan-Foreign officials and these prejudices - War with Japan

not improbable..

Page 281

CHAPTER XVIII.

-

-

Narrative resumed -- Exciting times - Supposed attacks on M. de Wit

and others Visit from the Governor of Kanagawa- Object of his

visit He inspects my collections - A question regarding my

safety-A cautious and consolatory reply - Fences repaired and

spiked-Guards stationed round the foreign dwellings - My re-

searches in Japan come to an end- Plants put into Ward's cases —

Curiosity of the natives - Kindness of Captain Vyse - Adieu to

Japan - Arrival in China..

297

CHAPTER XIX.

-

Port of Chefoo

-

Leave Shanghae for Peking

Agricultural and

natural products-The Pei-ho river - Arrival at Tien-tsin - Salt-

mounds Suburbs. Mean buildings - Active trade Noisy

coolies - Shops Large warehouses -Hawkers - Gambling pro-

pensities of the people - The city-Ruinous ramparts Filthy

streets-Surrounding country-Salt plain-Gardens and nurseries

-Winter houses for plants-Fruit-trees cultivated in pots-

Fruit ice-houses-Vineyards - San-ko-lin-tsin's Folly - Winter in

Tien-tsin

305

CHAPTER XX.

The people of Tien-tsin - Visit to a gentleman's house - Reception-

Street beggars - Begging musicians - Civil hospital established

by the English - Dr. Lamprey's report - Chinese poorhouse -

Fat beggars Climate and temperature - Dust-storms - Remark-

able size of natural productions - Large men and horses - Shantung

fowls Gigantic millet, oily grain, and egg-apples - Jute —

Vegetables in cultivation - Imperial granaries - Use of millet and

jute stems-Foreign trade - New settlement for foreign merchants

-The future of Tien-tsin as a centre of trade

-

326

CHAPTER XXI.

Leave Tien-tsin for Peking-My passport-Mode of travelling-

Carts and wretched roads - Hotel at Tsai-tsoun - Towns of

Hoose-woo, Nan-ping, and Matao - Hotel at Chan-chow-wan-

Poor accommodation Moderate charges

-

-

Appearance of the

country Crops and cultivation - Mountains in the distance

Walls and ramparts of Peking Foreign embassies English

Legation - Medical missions - Chinese observatory — Views from

it-Tartar and Chinese cities ..

-

Page 344

-

CHAPTER XXII.

The streets of Peking - Imperial palaces — Lama mosque-Western

side of the city - Portuguese cemetery — Marble tablets - Tombs

of Catholic priests - Ricci and Verrics - Visits to the Chinese

city-Scenes at the gates-The cabs of Peking - Shops and

merchandise Vegetables and fruits "Paternoster Row"

Jade-stone and bronzes - Ancient porcelain-Temple of Agricul-

ture South side of Chinese city- Nursery gardens and plants-

Country people South-west side of Chinese city - Waste lands-

Royal ladies expected - A September morning in Peking - Northern

part of the Tartar city - The An-ting gate-Graves of English

officers The Lama temple- Chief features of Peking

CHAPTER XXIII.

357

-

A journey to the mountains-Long trains of camels and donkeys —

Pagoda at Pale-twang Large cemetery Curious fir-tree

Agricultural productions - Country people - Reach the foot of the

hills Temples of Pata-tshoo Foreign writing on a wall - A

noble oak-tree discovered - Ascend to the top of the mountains

- Fine views Visit from mandarins - Early morning view-

Return to Peking - Descend the Pei-ho Sail for Shanghae -

Arrange and ship my collections — Arrive in Southampton .. 373

--

-

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

1. View of Yokuhama, from the hills behind the town.. Frontispiece.

2. View of Castle Island, Cape Gotto ..

3. View of Fusi-yama-From a Japanese sketch

4. Street in Kanagawa. - The Tokaido or Imperial

6. Umbrella Pine (Sciadopitys verticillata)..

7. Farm-houses near Yedo, with Iris on the Roofs

8. Plan of Central Portion of the City of Yedo

9. A Yedo Gentleman, with Servant carrying Custom-house Officer with Fan

10. Japanese Heads, showing the mode of dressing the hair

11. Bridge Scene in Yedo.-From a native sketch

12. Bikuni, or Mendicant Nuns

13. Nursery Maids ..

14. Ino-Sima, "Our Pilot's Home"

17. Girls meeting-an example of Japanese manners 18. Bronze Image

..

To face p. 125