DEPARTURE FROM SANTA CRUZ.

47

fête in the garden of Mr. Little, who had reduced to cultivation a hill covered with volcanic substances, from which there is a magnificent view of the Peak, the villages along the coast, and the isle of Palma. Early in the evening the volcano suddenly exhibited a most extraordinary spectacle, the shepherds having, in conformity to ancient custom, lighted the fires of St. John; the scattered masses of which, with the columns of smoke driven by the wind, formed a fine contrast to the deep verdure of the woods that covered the sides of the mountain, while the silence of nature was broken at intervals by the shouts of joy which came from afar.

CHAPTER IV.

Passage from Teneriffe to Cumana.

Departure from Santa Cruz-Floating Seaweeds-Flying-fish-StarsMalignant Fever-Island of Tobago-Death of a Passenger-Island of Coche-Port of Cumana-Observations made during the Voyage; Temperature of the Air; Temperature of the Sea; Hygrometrical State of the Air; Colour of the Sky and Ocean.

HAVING Sailed from Santa Cruz on the evening of the 25th of June, with a strong wind from the northeast, our travellers soon lost sight of the Canary Islands, the mountains of which were covered with reddish vapour, the Peak alone appearing at intervals in the breaks. The passage from Teneriffe to Cumana was performed in twenty days, the distance being 3106 miles.

The wind gradually subsided as they retired from the African coast. Short calms of several hours occasionally took place, which were regularly interrupted by slight squalls, accompanied by masses of dark clouds, emitting a few large drops of rain, but

48

FLOATING SEAWEEDS.

without thunder. To the north of the Cape Verd Islands they met with large patches of floating seaweed (Fucus natans), which grows on submarine rocks, from the equator to forty degrees of latitude on either side. These scattered plants, however, must not be confounded with the vast beds, said by Columbus to resemble extensive meadows, and which inspired with terror the crew of the Santa Maria. From a comparison of numerous journals, it appears that there are two such fields of seaweed in the Atlantic. The largest occurs a little to the west of the meridian of Fayal, one of the Azores, between 25° and 36° of latitude. The temperature of the ocean there is between 60·8° and 68°; and the north-west winds, which blow sometimes with impetuosity, drive floating islands of those weeds into low latitudes, as far as the parallels of 24° and even 20°. Vessels returning to Europe from Monte Video, or the Cape of Good Hope, pass through this marine meadow, which the Spanish pilots consider as lying half-way between the West Indies and the Canaries. The other section is not so well known, and occupies a smaller space between lat. 22° and 26° of N., two hundred and seventy-six miles eastward of the Bahama Islands.

Although a species of seaweed, the Laminaria pyrifera of Lamouroux, has been observed with stems 850 feet in length, and although the growth of these plants is exceedingly rapid, it is yet certain that in those seas the fuci are not fixed to the bottom, but float in detached parcels at the surface. In this state, vegetation, it is obvious, cannot continue longer than in the branch of a tree separated from the trunk; and it may therefore be supposed, that floating masses of these weeds occurring for ages in the same position, owe their origin to submarine rocks, which continually supply what has been carried off by the equinoctial currents. But the causes by which these plants are detached are not yet suffi

ciently known, although the author just named has shown that fuci in general separate with great facility after the period of fructification.

Beyond 22° of latitude they found the surface of the sea covered with flying-fish (Exocetus volitans), which sprang into the air to a height of twelve, fifteen, and even eighteen feet, and sometimes fell on the deck. The great size of the swimming-bladder in these animals, being two-thirds the length of their body, as well as that of the pectoral fins, enable them to traverse in the air a space of twenty-four feet, horizontal distance, before falling again into the water. They are incessantly pursued by dolphins while under the surface, and when flying are attacked by frigate-birds, and other predatory species. Yet it does not seem that they leap into the atmosphere merely to avoid their enemies; for, like swallows, they move by thousands in a right line, and always in a direction opposite to that of the waves. The air contained in the swimming-bladder had been supposed to be pure oxygen; but Humboldt found it to consist of ninety-four parts of azote, four of oxygen, and two of carbonic acid.

On the 1st July they met with the wreck of a vessel, and on the 3d and 4th crossed that part of the ocean where the charts indicate the bank of the Maal-Stroom, which, however, is of very doubtful existence. As they approached this imaginary whirlpool, they observed no other motion in the waters than that produced by a current bearing to the north

west.

From the time when they entered the torrid zone (the 27th June), they never ceased to admire the nocturnal beauty of the southern sky, which gradually disclosed new constellations to their view. "One experiences an indescribable sensation," says Humboldt, "when, as he approaches the equator, and especially in passing from the one hemisphere to the other, he sees the stars with which he has been faE

50

MALIGNANT FEVER ON BOARD.

miliar from infancy gradually approach the horizon, and finally disappear. Nothing impresses more vividly on the mind of the traveller the vast distance to which he has been removed from his native country than the sight of a new firmament. The grouping of the larger stars, the scattered nebulæ rivalling in lustre the milky-way, and spaces remarkable for their extreme darkness, give the southern heavens a peculiar aspect. The sight even strikes the imagination of those who, although ignorant of astronomy, find pleasure in contemplating the celestial vault, as one admires a fine landscape or a majestic site. Without being a botanist, the traveller knows the torrid zone by the mere sight of its vegetation; and without the possession of astronomical knowledge, perceives that he is not in Europe, when he sees rising in the horizon the great constellation of the Ship, or the phosphorescent clouds of Magellan. In the equinoctial regions, the earth, the sky, and all their garniture assume an exotic character."

The intertropical seas being usually smooth, and the vessel being impelled by the gentle breezes of the trade-wind, the passage from the Cape Verd Islands to Cumana was as pleasant as could be desired; but as they approached the West Indies a malignant fever disclosed itself on board. The ship was very much encumbered between decks, and from the time they passed the tropic the thermometer stood from 93° to 96.8°. Two sailors, several passengers, two negroes from the coast of Guinea, and a mulatto child were attacked. An ignorant Galician surgeon ordered bleedings, to obviate the "heat and corruption of the blood;" but little exertion had been made in attempting to diminish the danger of infection, and there was not an ounce of bark on board. A sailor, who had been on the point of expiring, recovered his health in a singular manner. His hammock having been so hung that the sacrament could

TOBAGO-BOCCA DEL DRAGO.

51

not be administered to him, he was removed to an airy place near the hatchway, and left there, his death being expected every moment. The transition from a hot and stagnant to a fresher and purer atmosphere gradually restored him, and his recovery furnished the doctor with an additional proof of the necessity of bleeding and evacuation,―a treatment of which the fatal effects soon became perceptible. On the 13th, early in the morning, very high land was seen. The wind blew hard, the sea was rough, large drops of rain fell at intervals, and there was every appearance of stormy weather. Considerable doubt existed as to the latitude and longitude, which was however removed by observations made by our travellers, and the appearance of the island of Tobago. This little island is a heap of rocks, the dazzling whiteness of which forms an agreeable contrast with the verdure of the scattered tufts of trees upon it. The mountains are crowned with very tall opuntiæ, which alone are enough to apprize the navigator that he has arrived on an American coast.

After doubling the north cape of Tobago and the point of St. Giles, they discovered from the masthead what they regarded as a hostile squadron; which, however, turned out to be only a group of rocks. Crossing the shoal which joins the former island to Grenada, they found that, although the colour of the sea was not visibly changed, the thermometer indicated a temperature several degrees lower than that of the neighbouring parts. The wind diminished after sunset, and the clouds dispersed as the moon reached the zenith. Numerous falling-stars were seen on this and the following nights.

On the 14th, at sunrise, they were in sight of the Bocca del Drago, and distinguished the island of Chacachacarreo. When seventeen miles distant from the coast, they experienced, near Punta de la Baca, the effect of a current which drew the ship southward.