RECOLLECTIONS OF THE STEPPES OF TARTARY CHAPTER I. Starting for Siberia-Messages for the Exiles--Packing the SledgeThe Exiles' Gate of Moscow-Our first Stage-Our Courier is drunk, as are all the Postboys-Drive through a Russian Forest-Arrive at Nijni Novgorod-Hospitality of the Governor-The Volga-A Drive on the Ice-Kasan-Roadside bargaining—Beautiful Scenery-Terrors of the Road—Arrive at Ekaterinburg. Ekaterinburg, March 7th, 1848. MY DEAR FRIEND, As I am now going to plunge into the wilds of Siberia, I shall proceed to fulfil my promise, and give you a faithful account of every matter likely to interest you which may befall me in this land of ice and snow. Moscow and all it contains are so well known to both of us, that I shall not weary you by recalling scenes, which we have so often visited together. I must not, however, neglect mentioning the kindness of our friends the Capnists, who did everything to render my short B stay agreeable. My first letter told you all about my marriage; and now I must give you an idea of the preparations for this long journey to Siberia. As the middle of February is past, everything has to be hastened, that we may be on the road before the winter begins to break up; and this keeps me in such a whirl of excitement, that I have little time to spare for jotting down even these few lines before our departure. There is another great drawback to our progress: everybody is enjoying the Maslinitz;* even Mr. Atkinson's man Nicholai cannot be found, and the yemschicks have made such frequent applications to the vodky, that there seems little chance of their driving. All these circumstances tend to make us anxious about our progress eastward. On the morning of the 20th we were alarmed by a rapid thaw, which soon flooded the streets of Moscow, and exposed the bare pavement to view, rendering sledging difficult. However, by great perseverance, all the things necessary for our journey were collected before midnight on the 21st, and, notwithstanding that many of our friends urged the absolute necessity of deferring our departure for some days, Mr. Atkinson decided we should start on the morrow at all risks. During my short stay in Moscow, it became known to the families of many exiles that I was going to visit regions where their husbands, fathers, and brothers had spent more than twenty years of their lives. Each member of these families had something to communicate * Maslinitz, carnival. CHAP. I. STARTING FOR SIBERIA. 3 a wife, who had stood at the gate of Moscow with an infant in her arms, to take the last look at the husband and the father, as he was driven slowly past; young children who were now men and women, who had been horrified with the clanking of chains when receiving the last embrace; then there were mothers who had gazed with agony on their sons as they passed under the great archway, and were lost to them for ever; sisters who had received the last salute of those so dear, and brothers who had met here and grasped each other's hands, but were destined never to meet again: all these had some message which they wished to be delivered. Nor could I refuse them this pleasure, although it would, I found, entail several deviations from our intended route. Had it been possible to dine a dozen times in the day, I think we should have been compelled to do so, as each family was anxious that we should be their guests. There was a melancholy interest in these gatherings which few can appreciate; it was only by a knowledge of the circumstances which had sent their friends into exile, and the difficulty of making any confidential communication to those so dear to them, that I could understand their anxious desire to detain us; nor shall I ever forget the parting and the blessing which they bestowed upon us. It was far into the small hours of Sunday, when we retired to rest for the last time in Moscow. On Sunday morning we were up ere day dawned, and busy with our preparations, hoping to have all packed before any friend arrived to bid us farewell. It had been arranged that we should take an early dinner, and then start. Immediately after breakfast Mr. Atkinson, Nicholai, and some others, began packing our baggage into the sledge. When starting on a long journey, this is a matter of no small importance, and I was told that everything depended on the arrangement for our comfort during a journey of twelve days and nights; but as this was being done by one who had acquired practical experience, I had no fear of the results. Package after package was stowed in its place without difficulty ; and then the whole was covered with two large bearskins, giving a most comfortable and inviting appearance to our vehicle, in which we were going to take a journey of nearly 5,000 miles, I looked at the sledge with no little interest, as it was to carry me among scenes that the General and I had often spoken about, when none of us dreamed that my wish to visit them could ever be realised. How often we have talked about those in exile whom I shall now visit, carrying many a token to prove that even after so long an absence they have not been forgotten! Although dinner had been ordered at two o'clock, we had a succession of visitors till long past that hour, nor could we deny them access. At length the horses arrived; this warned them of our speedy departure, and the necessity of leaving us in quiet to our repast. It was not a long one, and at half-past three o'clock we were seated in our sledge, the word was given, and the yemschick drove off. The day had been mild and sunny, and the snow melted fast, which caused Mr. Atkinson no little apprehension as to the state of the roads. The horses were soon in a gallop, dashing up the snow and slush in showers. In some parts we CHAP. I. OUR FIRST STAGE. 5 were really brought to a stand on the bare stones, and at five o'clock the sentinel stopped us at the gate of Moscow, an officer demanded our passports, which were shortly returned, and the bar was ordered to be raised. As we passed through, I seemed to be bidding farewell to the world; I thought of the many exiles who had crossed this barrier; and it was a relief when we had passed beyond the great archway. Amongst the prisoners who are marched through this portal on their way to Siberia, some are steeped in the deepest crimes, others are convicted of minor offences, and hundreds have passed this spot whose only crime was resisting the cruel treatment of their brutal masters. Shortly after leaving the gate, a turn brought us on a line of straight road, the yemschick put his horses into a gallop, and away we went; he announced that it was freezing-to us most welcome news. The speed of the horses and the tinkling of the bells recalled my thoughts from the distressing events on which they had been dwelling, and reminded me of the journey before us. It was a fine night, and star after star appeared in the firmament, till it was spotted over with its twinkling wonders; watching these as they ascended, and then peering into the deep gloom which began to shroud all objects from our view, caused my thoughts to wander back to you, and those from whom each hour was taking me further away. A feeling of sadness crept over me, from which I was aroused by the driver pulling up at the post station. All was darkness in the building not a person was visible, it appeared deserted. Mr. Atkinson desired. |