CHAP. VII. INTENSE HEAT ON THE STEPPE.

171

white crests far into the clear blue sky, exhibiting a picture of both winter and summer, for the valley where we were was one carpet of flowers.

Our progress down to the plain was at times very steep and difficult. The heat became greater at every step, and then there were millions of mosquitoes, who bit us without mercy; and where we stopped, we had to fill the yourt with smoke, to drive out the enemy. As we advanced, and got glimpses of the country below, it was like a sea of yellow sand with a stripe of green along the banks of the river, which we saw winding its course till lost in the horizon.

On entering one of the ravines it was just like going into an oven, the hot blast that met us was fearful: but on reaching the plain it was still worse; the sun, and the heat reflected from the arid rocks, positively broiled us. The temperature ranged between 55° and 60° Reaumur. Whilst the yourt was being fixed my husband laid his gun on the sand, but when he went to take it up, it burnt his hand, and the blister remained for several days.

On going into the yourt I thought I should have been suffocated; and, to add to our discomfort, we were forced to have a fire to keep off the mosquitoes. Fortunately we thought of having water poured over the sand; this cooled the atmosphere a little.

Poor Alatau was in a sad state; he was one mass of bites. No one could have recognised him. I myself was not much better. I placed the little fellow in bed, perfectly naked, and covered with a piece of muslin, which we contrived to prop up; but still the brutes succeeded

in getting in, and it was impossible to sit by and watch the whole time.

Mr. Atkinson soon completed what he wished to do here, and on the morning of the third day we started back to the mountains. We were up between two and three, when I turned out to have a dip in the Lepsou, raining and dark though it was. Standing on the banks, and looking across the steppe, I witnessed the dawn, a most lovely sight. It was the first time I had ever seen it over the steppe. For a few moments I thought it was a fire, and that the rosy tints were caused by the flames gradually lighting up all around, but I was soon undeceived. Willingly would I have seated myself to watch the approaching day, but there was no time to be lost, as we had to be on our way by sunrise; it being quite impossible to travel during the great heat.

When we started early I always let Alatau rest till the men were ready to take down the tent, when I aroused the little sleeper, to bathe, dress, and feed him. His toilette was soon completed, as it consisted of nothing more than one loose dress which I had made from some Bokharian material. This he wore with a belt round his waist. He never had shoes or stockings on his feet till our return to this place (Barnaoul), and even now I have much difficulty in getting him to wear them. I very often find them on my table. He takes them off, and runs about without them; but this is quite common amongst Russian children, and is considered very healthy. They even trot about the gardens, and over the grass, without either; and not only children, but grown-up persons

CHAP. VII.

AN INVITATION TO DINNER.

173

do the same, and delightful, I can tell you, it is, especially on the sand.

One day we began to imagine we were back again in civilised society. We were journeying on when we met a Kirghis, who said he had had some difficulty in finding us, and that he had a letter for me. On reading it I found it contained an invitation to dinner, and was thus expressed: 'If Mr. and Madame would be so good as to dine with me to-day in the first hour, I will beg of them to bring a pair of silver spoons and a pair of forks, and nothing more will be wanting.'

CHAPTER VIII.

Russian Courtesy-Sumptuous Dinner-An afflicted Child-Cossack Desire for Information-Scanty Food-The Ala-kool-Intense HeatFuneral Rites of the Kirghis-Singular Custom-A Love Ball-Enormous Appetites-A Scene of Grandeur-Effects of the Wind-Gift of a Maral-Extraordinary animal Attachment-Loss of a Pet-Chinese penal Settlements-Visit and Pursuit of Intruders-Return to RestHeavy Storm-A lovely Picture-Masses of Rock-Evidences of Volcanoes-Kirghis' Tombs-A treacherous Climate-Large black Eagle -Numerous Thunderstorms-Return to old Quarters-Suspicious Visitors Exciting Chase-A determined Scoundrel-Rapid Streams -Wild Horses-A frightened Steed-Congratulations-A Halt— Devoured by Mosquitoes-A Chinese Picquet-National Costume— Polite Reception-Hasty Arrival and Departure-Interview with Officials-Affection for Children-A Desire ungratified-Chinese Interpreter-Invitation to Dinner-Alatau overwhelmed with Kisses -Taking Leave-Guard of Honour Systematic Arrangements— Refreshing Bath-A great Delicacy-Amusing Incident-An empty Cupboard-Successful Search for Apples-Washing Contrivances— Tea-party in the Steppe-A Bride's Attire and Bridal Party-Mutual Satisfaction-Female Tea-party-Disappointed Lords of the CreationDisparity of Age in married Couples-A Wife's Correction and Care -Beck Sultan's Daughter-A graceful Amazon-Frightful Ravages by Wolves-Parting with our Cossacks-Zmeinogorsk—Our altered Appearance-Manners and Customs-Fortune-telling-A generous Apothecary-Singular Circumstance-Providential Escape-The Hand of Providence-Filling up the Time-Approach of Christmas-Nearly suffocated.

THE idea was too delicious to refuse.

July 8th, 1849. Pelonka was a

Russian merchant whose acquaintance we had made in Kopal, and whom we had also met in the moun

CHAP. VIII. A MERCHANT'S HOSPITALITY.

175

tains. He had heard of us, and had sent this man to seek and take us to his aoul, which was situated near the river Tinteck (wild or savage). Our friend had chosen a lovely spot on which to encamp, and prepared for us was a very nice little yourt, fitted up exquisitely. The voilock was raised a little all round, so that a gentle breeze passed through. His wife (he was married to a Kirghis) and children soon came to visit us and to make tea, undoubtedly the best we had ever tasted; then they brought me cushions on which to repose till dinner, which I gladly did, for the day was sultry hot.

At the appointed hour dinner was forthcoming, and a sumptuous one it was; everything was clean and neat, and they tried to do all they could to make us comfortable. Here we gained a great deal of information respecting the different routes. Before quitting, our host presented Alatau with a tiny basin to drink out of. He had previously sent him, when but a week old, one still smaller, with a note stating that it was for ‘the new-born babe,' which note, I regret to say, I have lost.

The atmosphere being cooled, we were anxious to be off, so I called at the yourt of Pelonka, to take leave of his wife. After sitting with her for awhile, she took me to a compartment separated by curtains, in which was their only son. He made me shudder to look at him. The child was about eight or ten years of age; his disease was the 'king's evil,' which I was told made frightful ravages among these people; his head was swollen to a dreadful size, and in an awful state. The father entered; we spoke of the little fellow, and he said, if we could