to sketch; so I begged of him, if he found apples, not to fail in bringing a supply, and for that purpose provided Columbus with a bag. He did not seem at all inclined to take it, saying he was confident none would be found in the region they were about to visit. Nevertheless I insisted on its being taken; I was too hungry to lose a chance of procuring apples, sour though they

were.

Hours had passed, when a man touched me to draw my attention from my needle, which was in constant demand, and pointed in the direction whence we had been looking for the return of the wanderers. As they drew near I saw our three, but to my surprise, on the led horse was seated another, and the Cossack leading him. I began to think they had had a struggle, and were bringing this man prisoner, but on their coming closer I was astonished to find that it was a headless trunk, seated upon the horse. I then recollected that at that period of the year no Kirghis ever wandered so far in the mountains, indeed all had descended to the plains. My heart was sad; I fancied it might be some poor fellow who had been killed by the wolves and still I thought, why had they not buried him on the mountain? All the men were engaged looking and wondering, when my husband rode up and all was explained. It turned out that they had wandered farther than they expected, and came upon large orchards of apples, the fruit hanging in tempting masses. The bag was quickly filled, and the Kirghis mounted it before him on the saddle; but Columbus stood bridle in hand leaning against his

CHAP. VIII. A TEA-PARTY IN THE STEPPE.

203

horse, apparently in deep thought. My husband was gathering some flowers to bring me, when he perceived him suddenly start up and without further hesitation divest himself of his tchimbar. Tying each leg with a string, he filled them with apples, and drawing the top together fastened them astride on the led animal; and this was the headless trunk.

You will like to know, I dare say, how I managed about my washing. When near a aoul I used to get the Kirghis women where we encamped, when not too late, to do it for me; and in payment gave needles, which were much prized, ear-rings, beads, pins, and even metal buttons: all these things gave great satisfaction. They make their own soap, but I never saw it done. When the linen was washed they brought it to me to dry, as they had no time to look after it; and you may conceive the process of drying was not a long one. I then folded it, when it was beautifully mangled with the pressure it got on the road.

I must now tell you of a tea-party I had in the steppe. Mr. Atkinson wishing to sketch a group of women, I sent the Cossack to invite a number, as I could not get them to understand what I wanted. They came in grand holiday costume, and amongst them was a bride, whose dress was really pretty. The calatte was silk of gaudy colours, over this was worn a short jacket of black velvet, with crimson cloth round the edge. The head-dress consisted of a high conical сар, the upper part being white, whilst a black velvet band embroidered with gold enclosed the face. A line of silver drops and coral beads hung over the forehead,

from a broad band embroidered with coral; and over all this was thrown a white veil. We once met a bridal party, the husband was taking the object of his affections, or rather his slave, to his own aoul. The veil was thrown completely over her head, concealing her features entirely, so that her horse had to be led. Camels were following with her dowry. I wished to raise her veil; at first she made a slight resistance, but afterwards allowed me to lift it. She smiled and seemed pleased to see us, and surveyed me probably with as much curiosity as I did her. She looked very interesting, which is more than I can say of the generality of her countrywomen. To return to my tea-party. When the sketch was completed, I had the somervar brought in, and mustering all the basins and glasses we were possessed of, regaled my friends with tea. I wish you could have seen the dismay pictured on the faces of the men, to whom I was cruel enough not to offer even a glass. Tea concluded, I had meat brought in and served to my guests. This was the crowning point; the lords of the creation' could no longer stand this slight, so arose and made their exit, and I saw no more of them that night. The women appeared to enjoy the fun of the thing. When they had ended their meal, I completed their happiness by giving to each a few beads and ear-drops.

I must tell you of the very great disparity which occurs frequently in the ages of married couples amongst these tribes. At one aoul we saw a newly married couple, where the wife was near thirty and the husband a mere child, whom I saw her correcting in the

from a broad band embroidered with coral; and over all this was thrown a white veil. We once met a bridal party, the husband was taking the object of his affections, or rather his slave, to his own aoul. The veil was thrown completely over her head, concealing her features entirely, so that her horse had to be led. Camels were following with her dowry. I wished to raise her veil; at first she made a slight resistance, but afterwards allowed me to lift it. She smiled and seemed pleased to see us, and surveyed me probably with as much curiosity as I did her. She looked very interesting, which is more than I can say of the generality of her countrywomen. To return to my tea-party. When the sketch was completed, I had the somervar brought in, and mustering all the basins and glasses we were possessed of, regaled my friends with tea. I wish you could have seen the dismay pictured on the faces. of the men, to whom I was cruel enough not to offer even a glass. Tea concluded, I had meat brought in and served to my guests. This was the crowning point; the lords of the creation' could no longer stand this slight, so arose and made their exit, and I saw no more of them that night. The women appeared to enjoy the fun of the thing. When they had ended their meal, I completed their happiness by giving to each a few beads and ear-drops.

I must tell you of the very great disparity which occurs frequently in the ages of married couples amongst these tribes. At one aoul we saw a newly married couple, where the wife was near thirty and the husband a mere child, whom I saw her correcting in the