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-The Lacy Caves-River Eden and Uther Pendragon-To
Ulleswater-The Ladies' Walk-St. Cuthbert's Church-Long-
wathby-Hartside-A Statesman of the Old School-A Coo i' t
Mire-A Cattle Dentist-Brain Explorers-Old Homespun-
How he rode to Market-How he manured his Fields-Clog-
wheelers and Pack-horses-Magnificent Prospect-A Bleak Hill-
top-Poor above, Rich below-Reminiscence of a Snow-storm-
Mountain Landscape-Alston-A Mining Town-Nent-force
Level-Underground Boating-Fiends' Fell-Tyne and Tees—
Yadmoss-The First Carriage-Unlucky Nobleman; Lucky
Hospital-Curious Epitaph
CHAPTER V.
Nent Valley-Geological Phenomena-Nent Head-Lead Works-A
Busy Scene Furnaces and Pigs-Seven Miles Underground—
Clogs and Children-Bouse and Bouse-teams-Washing, Bud-
dling, and Hotching-Slime Pits-Clever Separation—Wise or
not-Morals among Miners-Not so bad as it seems-An Ill-
word about Coal-mines-Ugly Facts-Kilhope Law-A Long
Chimney-Coalcleugh-R and H, a Case of Exasperation-Up
for Hope-Carshield-Mr. Beaumont's Territory-The Pay-office
-Hartleycleugh-Snow Poles-Longer Chimneys - Allentown
-Reckoning without the Hosts-A Traveller in a fix-A Cheer-
ful Reception-Catton-Langley Castle-Haydon Bridge-Ano-
ther Cheerful Reception-What Roger North says—Hanging in
the Good Old Times
43
CHAPTER VI.
The Cheerful Reception explained-The Vale of Tyne-A Happy Cot-
tager-The Burr-The Northumbrian Shibboleth—Concerning
Hotspur-Confluence of North and South Tyne-Pleasing Views
-Hexham-Market-folk-The Moot-Hall-The Abbey Church
-Prospect from the Tower-The Battlefield-The Seal and the
Crypt-Dilstone Castle-A Teetotal Festival-What the Fruit-
woman said-The Devil Water-The Bonny Lord-The Last
Derwentwater-Corbridge-A Peel-What the Lord Keeper
saw-Early Whisky-A Scrap from Akenside-Bywell, a
Pretty Village-Mickley-Ovingham-Burial-place of the Bew-
icks-Cherryburn-A Talk in the Church-yard-The Ferry-
Prudhoe Castle-Barons and Wolves-Scots and Appletrees-
An Invitation-A Coke-burner's Cottage-His Domestic Eco-
nomy-Wylam-The First Railways-A Pitman's Village-
About Pilgrimage-Geordie Stephenson's Birth-place—A Fussy
Engine-Stone-crushers-Newburn-Riverside Population-The
Keel-row-Scraps of Song-Metropolis of Coal
PAGE
58
CHAPTER VII.
Newcastle-A Surprising Town-Awful Smoke-View from the
Castle-Relics of the Olden Time-Handsome Streets-The
Museum-Learned Antiquaries-Rarities-Chapel and Guard
Room-Saint Nicholas-Grey Street-The Exchange-Business
and Philosophy-Stephenson's Works-The Pasha's Locomotive
-The Rocket-George Stephenson's Monuments-Distressed
Shipowners-To Elswick-Sir William Armstrong's Works-
Hydraulic Engines-Printing by Water-power-Mechanical Tri-
umphs-The Armstrong Gun-The Oldest House-Unhappy
Bank-Happy Men-The Ragged School-Useful Trades-Re-
creations-Music: Yankee Doodle-A Parting Song
83
CHAPTER VIII.
How Newcastle entertained a Lord-How it treats Steamboat Passen-
gers-The Gateshead Gap-Embellishing the Quay-Sights on
the Tyne Town versus River-Ancient Boatmen -St. An-
thony's-Locke and Blackett's Lead-works-Separating the
Silver-Pattinson's Process-Rich Pigs and Poor Pigs-The
Test-Refining the Silver-The Slag Furnace-Litharge and
Red Lead-Slabs and Sheets-Pipes by Pressure-Annual Pro-
duce of Lead
98
CHAPTER IX.
On the River again-Walker, a Pandemonium-Shoving into the
Smoke-The Pitman's Chant-Trade and Traders-Wallsend-
Cohorts and Coal-Busy Staithes-Sights of Ships-Willington
Quay—George and Robert Stephenson-Northumberland Dock
-Hudson and Weser-Jarrow Slake-A Venerable Relic-
Throng of Ships-North Shields-A Queer Street-The Sea, the
Sea, the Open Sea !-Busy Movement on the River-Thames
and Tyne-The Durham Coal-field-Mighty Trade in Coal-
Captain's Fare-South Shields-A Comfortable Sight-Jarrow
Docks-Clang, Crash, and Uproar-From Scraps to Bars-A
Spell of Purgatory-From Noise to Quiet-Venerable Bede :
his Church, Convent, and Chair-Scramble up the Tower-
Antiquaries to the Rescue!-A Strange Landscape-Growing
Hills-Good-tempered Clergyman-The Ferry-Tees Water not
Tyne Water-A Queer Walk-Hospitality at Tynemouth—The
Cliffs-The Self-hoaxed Contractor-Lighthouse and Priory-
Ugly Governor's House
CHAPTER X.
To Earsden-The Duke's Mining-agent-Plan of a Coal-pit-Black-
ness and Verdure-The School-Old Robert-The Pit-mouth-
Down into the Darkness-Faintness, Blindness, Bewilderment
-Noises-Begin to see-Shaft and Tunnel-A Walk Under-
ground-Coal Trains-Dismal Doorkeepers-Aspects of the
Mine The Breathing Apparatus-The Broken-The Hewer—
The Bonny Pit Laddie-The Trouble-Two Miles Underground
-Fuel for Fifteen-hundred Years-Warning to Cock-fighters—
A Remonstrance-There's no harm in Quoits-The Question of
Questions The Group round the Coal-wagon-A Sigh for
Answer-Strata and Seams-The deepest Pit-A Hopeful Boy;
a Thoughtful Man-The Stable-The Furnace-Up to the Sun-
shine.
111
134
CHAPTER XI.
Walking Northwards--Seaton Delaval--Hartley-Seaton Sluice-A
Curious Port-An Honest Place-The Sea-beach-Sand-hoppers
-A Feast for Curlews-Gull-shooters-Beautiful Eating-Sand-
hills-Blyth-Great Coal Trade-Camboise-The Wansbeck-
The Links-Newbiggin-Night by the Sea-The Village by Day-
light-The Church on the Point-Epitaphs-Aspects of the
Shore-Snab Point-Druridge Bay-Skeleton of a Whale—
Inside a Whale's Mouth-Cresswell Sands-A Walk on the
Links-Flowers-Coquet Island-Cottage Philosophy-Hamp-
shire versus Northumberland-Amble-More Coal Trade-
Warkworth-A Friendly Surprise-The Castle-Glimpses of the
Past The Charming Coquet-The Hermitage.
146
CHAPTER XII.
Alnwick The Old Gate-Quiet Day and Market Day-The Castle-
The Barbican-The Baily-Permission to View-The Duke's
Tower The Duchess's Tower-The Keep-The Well-The
Grand Staircase-Native Material--Decorations from Chevy
Chase-Gorgeous Ceilings-Hall of the first Percy-A Question
of Art-Native Artists-The Prudhoe Tower-The Record Tower
-The Museum-Hotspur's Chair-A Great Household-Remi-
niscence of Canina-The Evil Eye-Glimpses of History-Tysen
-De Vesci-The Percys-Valour, Honour, and the Headsman
-From Percy to Smithson-Royal Visitors-Sir Ralph the
Birdkeeper
67
CHAPTER XIII.
Fetterlock and Crescent-Capturing a Lion-A Walk in the Park—
The Brislee Tower-The Prospect-Inspirations-Moralising—
Hulne Abbey-John de Vesci-A Pilgrimage to Palestine-A
Discovery on Carmel-Days of Old-The Northumbrian Carmel
-The Friars' Library-A Word of Wisdom-Dormentory and
Ivory-Parlez-vous Français ?—An Inscription—Alnwick Abbey
-Malcolm's Spring-A Miraculous Relic-A Lucky Burgess-
Tombs of the Percys-Malcolm's Cross
CHAPTER XIV.
Yielding to an Inclination-Alnwick Moor-A Foolish Custom-
Agricultural Transformations-What o'clock will it be?-Claes
and Bullets-A Crack with Keeper-Yon's Old Chivot-Wild
Hills-Foxes and Fishing-Smugglers-An Invitation-Coquet-
Dale-Weldon Brig-Brinkburn Priory-A Sparkling River
-The Angler's Song-Rothbury-The Castle Quarry-A thick-
walled Rectory - The Church and Bernard Gilpin- Prince
Charlie's Head-quarters-A Pleasant Sojourn-The Lasses o'
Coquet-Wetting a Bargain-Beasts and Brandy-How to judge
of Northumberland-Old Simonside-Larbottle-A Northum-
brian Village-Cottages-Boxbeds, Hinds, and Bondagers--
Domestic Habits-Shabby Hovels-Improved Cottages-Callaly
Castle-Eslington-Hospitable Reception-Scomfished Fishes-
A Jolly Dinner-A Spur in the Head-Equestrian Trip to the
Hills-Cheviot Sheep-Ingram-The Breamish-A Wicked
Water-Ilderton-Twilight Walk .
CHAPTER XV.
Wooler, a Rustic Metropolis—Historical Neighbourhood-Scott in the
Cheviots-Reason for drinking Goat's Whey-The Top of
Cheviot-Northumbrian Agriculture-Improvements-Economy
of Wheels—Glorious Turnips-Backend-How to grow Turnips
182
192
--Clever Operations-Yeavering_Bell-A Steep Climb-Windy
Summit-Druids or Saxons ?-Paulinus the Missionary-Good
Fights in Olden Time-Thomson's Winter-Sir Guy and the
Dragon-Faws and Muggers-A Northumbrian Bard-Lilburne
-Breamish and Till-Chillingham - Hospitable Steward-
Ancient Mansion-The Toad-stone-Learning in Latin-An In-
terpretation-The Wild Cattle-Stalking-A Sight of the Herd
-A Hint to Move-Beauty of Kine- Danger-Pugnacious
Calves-Tossing a Keeper-Shooting a Bull-Wild Hill-Top -
The Three Dogs-Black Waste-Ugly Farm-place-Belford
CHAPTER XVI.
210
Belford-A Watch for Dominie-Embleton-Salmon-trout-Tra-
velling-Travellers-Isabella and Epitaph-Boat-stables-Dun-
stanborough - A Large Ruin-Grim Cliffs - Diamonds--Sir
Guy the Seeker-The Catastrophe-Rumble Churn-Rioting,
Raging, Roaring-A Twofold Bath-Lilburne Tower-Basaltic
Columns-A Storm-Herring Boats-A Tipsy Tailor-Newton
-Abominations-Rock-mushrooms - Beadnel-Geologists and
Antiquaries-Dismal Fog-North Sunderland-Limekilns-
Lifeboat-Maritime Jewelry-Monkshouse-Landlord and Fish-
erman-More Caution-Bamborough-The Ten-minute Gun-
-King Ida's Castle-Taken and Retaken-A Charitable Bishop
--Ready with Food, Schooling, and Rescue-Hearing and not
Seeing-Robin on French Poachers-Lifeboats-Fewer Wrecks
and more Fish-Lasting Fog-Bamborough again-Hospitable
Hostess-Lucker-Berwick
227
CHAPTER XVII.
Hawings for Breakfast—A Walk round the Walls-The Two Bridges
-A Scotchman's Reason Why-Berwick Bounds-Historic As-
sociations-Kings, Queens, and Butchers-Countess of Buchan
and Grizel Cochrane-Johnny Cope-Proxy Church Bells-A
Dry Preacher-The Pier-The Snook-Bamborough again-A
Pleasant Village-Grace Darling's Tomb-The Broken Column
-A Catastrophe-Church and Crypt-The Wandering Shep-
herdess-The Laidley Worm of Spindleston Heugh.
CHAPTER XVIII.
A Friend at Breakfast-Something Disgraceful-The School-girls-
A Glorious Morning-Myriads of Muscles-Sentiments in Shells
244