CHAP. XXVII. WE REACH THE MUKURU-MADSE.

593

in alarm, and made a great demonstration of fighting. It was amusing to notice the effect of Masego's quiet chaff on our pugnacious visitor, who took up a defensible position on a slope some fifty yards off, while we rested in the shade. "The women," said Masego, "had understood our civil petition for water perfectly; they showed no fear of peaceable men; we asked water from them because we had no vessel to draw with, and they had; but, if he insisted on fighting, he had better call all his friends and come on; it was daylight, and all would see who was the coward and who was not." The arrow was first taken from the bow-string and put alongside the bow, then it was placed in the quiver, and, though he continued talking and justifying his alarm, he listened, sat down, followed us at a distance, and, uninvited, eventually proved himself very useful as a guide. He afterward explained that he had been smoking hemp, and had been excited to this mad sort of conduct.

We had now thunder every afternoon; but, while occasional showers seemed to fall at different parts, none fell on us. The air was deliciously clear, and revealed all the landscape covered every where with forest, and bounded by beautiful mountains. On the 31st of October we reached the Mukuru-Madse, after having traveled 660 geographical miles, or 760 English miles in a straight line. This was accomplished in fifty-five traveling days, twelve miles per diem on an average. If the numerous bendings and windings, and ups and downs of the paths could have been measured too, the distance would have been found at least fifteen miles a day. A pedometer showed more, but in coming back from one short trip we found that the instrument varied so much that we did not use it again. A very good chronometer was employed to measure the differences of longitude. It was

PP

594

WET CLOTHES AND FEVER.

CHAP. XXVII.

carried in a box of clothing, on the head of a man of steady gait. In order to secure a chronometer being of any use, no dependence ought to be placed on its rate when stationary. Its traveling rate must be ascertained by taking a series of altitudes of the sun or stars at certain spots in the outward journey, and a second series of observations must be made at the same stations in the return journey. By this means the exact traveling rate can be found. The same plan should be followed in a boat; for, if this or some similar precaution be not taken, a chronometer, when carried, is of little value in measuring distances. This will be evident when it is mentioned that the chronometer we used, when at the ship, had the rate -11; in traveling, +1a daily, which would amount to a daily error of three miles.

The night we slept at the Mukuru-Madse it thundered heavily, but, as this had been the case every afternoon, and no rain had followed, we erected no shelter, but during this night a pouring rain came on. When very tired, a man feels determined to sleep in spite of every thing, and the sound of dropping water is said to be conducive to slumber, but that does not refer to an African storm. If, when half asleep, in spite of a heavy shower on the back of the head, he uncon sciously turns on his side, the drops from the branches make such capital shots into his ear that the brain rings again.

We were off next morning, the 1st of November, as soon as the day dawned. In walking about seven miles to the ship, our clothes were thoroughly dried by the hot sun, and an attack of fever followed. We relate this little incident to point out the almost certain consequence of getting wet in this climate, and allowing the clothes to dry on the person. Even if we walk in the mornings when the dew is on the grass, and only get our feet and legs wet, a very uneasy feel

CHAP. XXVII. WEARING WET CLOTHES DANGEROUS.

595

ing and partial fever, with pains in the limbs, ensue, and continue till the march onward bathes them in perspiration. Had Bishop Mackenzie been aware of this, which, before experience alone had taught us, entailed many a severe lesson, we know no earthly reason why his valuable life might not have been spared. The difference between getting the clothes soaked in England and in Africa is this: in the cold climate the patient is compelled, or, at any rate, warned by discomfort to resort at once to a change of raiment, while in Africa it is cooling and rather pleasant to allow the clothes to dry on the person. A missionary, in proportion as he possesses an athletic frame, hardened by manly exercises, in addition to his other qualifications, will excel him who is not favored with such bodily endowments; but in a hot climate efficiency mainly depends on husbanding the resources. He must never forget that, in the tropics, he is an exotic plant.

596

CONDUCT OF THE AJAWA.

CHAP. XXVIII.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Gratifying Confidence of Ajawa.-Annual Rest of tropical Trees.-Rise in the Shire insufficient.-Bishop Mackenzie's Successor.-Unfulfilled Hopes.What a Missionary ought to be.-Abandonment of Mission unnecessary.— Success of West Coast Missions.-January 19th, the Shire in Flood.-Leave Chibisa's. Delayed.-Reach Morambala on the 2d of February.-Effluvium from the Water.-Its Effects.-Take on Board Orphans and Widows.-The Zambesi in Flood.-Islands in the Zambesi.-Formation of the Delta.Death of Mariano.-Very moderate Exports.-Taken in Tow.-Heavy Gale. -Behavior of the "Lady of the Lake."-Promptitude and Skill of Captain Chapman, of H.M.S. Ariel.-Close packing of live Cargoes perhaps necessary. The Pioneer takes rescued Orphans and Widows with Mr. Waller to the Cape.-Caboceira.-M. Soares.-New Governor of Mozambique.-New Species of Pedalia.—On the 16th of April we reach Zanzibar.—Hospitality of Foreigners and of our own Countrymen.-On the 30th of April we leave Zanzibar on board the Lady Nyassa for Bombay.-African Sailors.-Arrival at Bombay.

WE were delighted and thankful to find all those left at the ship in good health, and that from the employments in which they had been occupied they had suffered less from fever than usual during our absence. The steward, after having performed his part in the march right bravely, rejoined his comrades stronger than he had ever been before.

An Ajawa chief, named Kapeni, had so much confidence in the English name that he, with most of his people, visited the ship, and asserted that nothing would give his countrymen greater pleasure than to receive the associates of Bishop Mackenzie as their teachers. This declaration, coupled with the subsequent conduct of the Ajawa, was very gratifying, inasmuch as it was clear that no umbrage had been taken at the check which the bishop had given to their slaving; their consciences had told them that the course he had pursued was right.

CHAP. XXVIII.

EFFECT OF THE RAINS.

597

When we returned, the contrast between the vegetation about Muazi's and that near the ship was very striking. We had come so quickly down, that, while on the plateau, in latitude 12° S., the young leaves had in many cases passed from the pink or other color they have on first coming out to the light fresh green which succeeds it, here, on the borders of 16° S., or from 150 to 180 miles distant, the trees were still bare, the gray color of the bark predominating over every other hue. The trees in the tropics here have a very well marked annual rest. On the Rovuma even, which is only about ten degrees from the equator, in September the slopes up from the river some sixty miles inland were of a light ashy-gray color; and on ascending them, we found that the majority of the trees were without leaves; those of the bamboo even lay crisp and crumpled on the ground. As the sun is usually hot by day, even in the winter, this withering process may be owing to the cool nights; Africa differing so much from Central India in the fact that, in Africa, however hot the day may be, the air generally cools down sufficiently by the early morning watches to render a covering, or even a blanket, agreeable.

The first fortnight after our return to the ship was employed in the delightful process of resting, to appreciate which a man must have gone through great exertions. In our case the muscles of the limbs were as hard as boards, and not an ounce of fat existed on any part of the body. We now had frequent showers; but, these being only the earlier rains, the result on the rise of the river was but a few inches. The effect of these rains on the surrounding scenery was beautiful in the extreme. All trace of the dry season was soon obliterated, and hills and mountains, from base to summit, were covered with a mantle of living green. The sun passed us