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hedges, flowers, and trees, surpassing fornian's boasting be true, traverses a the gardens at Fontainebleau ; a seashore section of the State which will give him drive of eighteen miles which far outriv- an idea of what California really is. The als for variety of scenery and pictur- hundred miles ride between San Franesqueness the famous drive by the sea at cisco and Monterey must be a continual Newport ; a Spanish-Mexican American surprise, if he be looking for the buffalo city that is eloquent with the history of and the Digger. Orchards, vineyards, four races, and a climate that makes it grain fields, forests of oak, stately coun. possible for the rose to live the year try mansions, charming little villages, around.

modern cities, form a picture that only If the Californian abroad wished to needs here and there a red-petticoated boast of a typical resort and one which woman in wooden shoes tilling the rich he would be willing to place in compe- earth to make one believe that the tition with the resorts of the old world,

" Wild West” is a dream and that the he would without doubt choose Del scene from the car window is but a Monte, rather than any one of a half mirage of some one of the fertile vinedozen others for which he might person- clad valleys of Southern France. ally have a fondness. Del Monte em- Outside of San Francisco ate the braces everything that makes life out of suburban towns of San Mateo, B Imont, town enjoyable, and among other points Redwood, Menlo Park, Palo Alto, and it is easy of access. The foreigner, who Burlingame, set in forests of oak, and on arriving in San Francisco determines famous as being the out-of-town homes to see for himself whether the Cali- of the city's millionaires, whos great

residences and flower-strewn parks are moss-hung oaks, no more resembling the without rival. Beyond San José, among stately oaks of New England than the the blue and purple shadows of the Coast adobe casa of the Spaniard resembles the Range Mountains, on the denuded top of turreted castle on the Rhine. Like the Mount Hamilton, the dome of the great Monterey cypress they are broken, disLick Observatory is plainly seen.

torted, low spreading, twisted, warped, Until the first glimpse of Monterey uncouth as though they had defied the Bay is caught between sage-brush cov earthquake and the thunderbolt ; pines, ered sand dunes, the country is massed tall, towering, and symmetrical; spruces, with ranches, vineyards, homes, and sycamores, madroños, and palms. Here cattle. The Pajaro and Salinas valleys roses grow like weeds, and pansies, callas, contain little to remind one of Bret heliotropes, honeysuckles, nasturtiums, Harte's stories. It is a land of sunshine and all the flowers of the tropics, riot, and plenty. It has prepared the traveler while the strange cactus growths of the for what is to come ; for the park at Del deserts and the moisture-loving plants of Monte and its mansion-hotel might be the equator thrive and blossom in perfect the home of the Prince of this sun-kissed abandon. empire. Yet after all there can be no Along the shores of the charming little preparation. What the architect and Laguna Del Rey, which is but a step the landscape gardener have done is and across the emerald green lawns, pond must remain a surprise. About this lilies, lotus flowers, and superb Victoria “Hotel of the Forest” and overshadow. Regias, float. There are

" Lovers! ing its miles of drives, stand great gnarled, Lanes" without number, tennis courts,




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croquet grounds, swings, see-saws, and the stunted cypresses, which resemble all the artificial inducements that appeal nothing on earth save the cedars of Leto those who look upon a tree as a tree banon or the artificially dwarfed foliage and a flower as a flower. Just beyond of a Japanese garden ; the next, among

summer girls' paradise, across a grove of oaks low hung with silver pena small mountain of sand and a little wil dants of Florida moss; then dashing derness of pine, is the wide sweep of the through a forest of pine, which carried sea, - a warm, sweet beach of sand, upon the mind to Maine or among the Adironwhich each wave casts the beautiful dacks. The rocky shore in places was a abalone shell and the blood-red star fish. network of coves and inlets that might

A great bathing house and a long pier have harbored the smuggler. At others, is filled with bathers while not half a it was as wild and tempestuous as the mile out at sea a whale is spouting. Bay of Fundy. From Cypress Point we

A little farther along the shore, past could look out on the Seal rocks covered the crumbling wharves of Monterey and with hundreds of great, barking, fighting the quaint Chinese fishing villages, the seals and thousands of gulls. Big-billed sand disappears in bold, jutting cliffs, pelicans in quest of their prey skimmed over which the water breaks in masses the crests of the waves, while sea ducks of foam. We took the Peninsula drive darted here and there with


alert for one sunny afternoon,- eighteen miles

the scraps left by the seals. By the side over a perfect road through scenery that of the road a Chinese boy was selling might have been drawn from three con brightly polished abalone shells and the tinents. One moment we were among wonderful harvest of the sea.



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