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From Point Lobos we could look across of life; the ever-busy little Douglass the historic Carmelo Bay to the Mission squirrel and his big gray brother scar per of San Carmel, where rest the bones of up and down the boles of the pines el its founder, the sainted Junipero Serra. carpintero keeps up a clip-clap on the Back of it, glorious in the tender lights of decayed arm of an oak, a flock of quail the evening sun, loom the Santa Lucia scatters from between the wheels, a eer Mountains. There are wild flowers under bounds across the road, a dove calls in a foot and the soft tropical air is heavy great shining madroño tree, and a man anwith their perfume. The woods are full ita — all aflame hides a road-run er.

a

race.

I may never see the Delectable Moun- Portuguese fishermen and abalone gathtains, but I know the delectable penin- erers, instead of the beauty and chivalry sula.

of old Spain. Yet one may tire of Nature and one As we rested on the rude board benches may tire in time of art, - if so, here is in the dim interior of Carmel and gazed Monterey-old, sleepy, historic, foreign up at the faded, time-wasted flowers and Monterey — the dream of the first Span- stained emblems on its neglected altar, ish navigators, the spot where the first the picture of that other civilization came mass was celebrated in California. Its back. It was a glorious picture, full of old adobe presidio, hotels, casas, and color, romance, and religion, but happily public building, are pathetic reminders of its passing did not rob it of its glory. its departed glory. Some of them were That will live long after the Anglo-Saxon standing as they stand today more than has given place to more perfect a hundred years before the signing of the Declaration of Independence. They have Junipero Serra's monument, cut in been silent witnesses to that grand, stone, stands on the hill overlooking the tragic battle of the Cross and the down- bay and the city with which his name fall of the Franciscan power. They have will forever be linked, and just beyond, sheltered Spanish grandees, American rising above the sea of oaks, is this wongenerals, and California's legislators. derful “Hotel of the Forest” that brings From one of them stands today the yearly from all parts of the civilized shaft on which floated the first Amer- world thousands to do him homage. It is ican flag in California; in

one of a strange dispensation of Providence that them was born the first white child the spot that the old Franciscan chose on the Coast; and in another the as the see of his religion on the Pacific first Indian baptism took place. They should become the Mecca of the fashion have seen the coming and the going of and wealth of the West. The little the whale oil industry, and they are now Episcopalian chapel outside the grounds simply objects of curiosity to the summer of Del Monte has usurped the place of tourist at Del Monte. The angelus rings the great Franciscan Mission at Carmel, now, as it did then, from the yellow twin but the worshipers in the one revere the towers of the Mission San Carlos, but it name of the old priest as much as did the calls to worship only a little handful of penitents in the other.

Rounsevelle Willman.

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A VAGABOND'S CHRISTMAS IN TAHITI.

RECOLLECTIONS OF A BEACH COMBER.

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ROM my earliest childhood the What a glorious day that was when I

Southsea's many an islet secured my passage to Papeete, Tahiti, shore” has had a peculiar fas- on the brigantine Timandra. My outfit cination to me. Tahiti or for the voyage and my subsequent soOtaheity, as it was generally journ on the island was slender, and called in books was espe

slenderer still was my purse after the cially the island of my dreams.

passage money was paid, but what cared It was always described as one of the I about that?— I was at last bound for the loveliest islands in the ocean, reposing in land, which I had in my mind pictured a sea blue as the vault above, and peo- as Eden itself. Our passage to the pled with beings, said to be the mildest, island was uneventful enough; light bravest, and handsomest on earth, a winds and a smooth sea, from the mundane paradise, in short. For years, moment we left the Golden Gate until however, it remained but a dream, even the surf-fringed shores of Tahiti hove in after I was grown up and had started to sight, made it veritable summer sailing explore the world on my own behalf. I over a summer sea. had always to go where fate willed, and It was a moonlight night, I recollect, somehow it always took me farther and when I first landed in Tahiti ;— they farther away from where I wished to go. seem to be all moonlight nights that I I began to think that my dreams would remember from among those in Tahiti. never come true, when fate at last We had anchored at dark inside the reef, brought me to San Francisco. Vessels close to the little islet called Motuti, and were leaving that port every month for before many minutes I was on my way Tahiti, and I could without difficulty have ashore. How beautiful it all seemed to secured a berth on one of them, but that me then! the strange overpowering was not what I desired. I wanted to go, smell, -the gayly dressed, laughing free as a bird, with money in my pocket, people,—the low houses overshadowed so I could thenceforth rove at pleasure with trees, -and the moon shedding its among those enchanted islands. So I went moist light over all. It was indeed a to work at once to make money by man- scene to be remembered, and that night ual labor; this is now many years ago I returned on board enchanted with and labor was then well paid on the everything. Coast. but it meant something akin to Next day I experienced my firs shock: slavery. Toil, toil, night and day, rain I did, without much trouble, scure a or shine. But I had a purpose in view- small house, containing two room, all to the purpose of my life-and I never fal- myself, and at a reasonable ret, but tered, never lost courage; and by saving before I took possession I was told that I almost every cent, at the expiration of a had to procure a permission de sidence year I had five hundred dollars.

from the French authorities. Un ier the

THE

PERMISSION DE RESIDENCE."

month was up I had ten dollars left, and my rent paid for another month.

I abandoned forthwith all expensive pleasures,-confining myself at first to a bread and fruit diet,—and began to take long walks through the island. The boasted hospitality of the natives was probably a thing of the past, or else my personal appearance was not such as to induce them to kill the fatted pullet for me; I had to pay for almost everything I received. In disgust I returned to Papeete and had a big blow-out for my remaining two dollars. I had a watch and some good clothing, and I had a roof over my head; but before many days 1 parted company with my watch, and then the clothes went, piece after piece, until

finally one fine day I found that I had impression that the island was governed nothing more to dispose of and was desby Queen Pomare, I had neglected to in- titute, with the rent due,- a regular colvest a dollar in a passport from the lapse. French consul in San Francisco, which, With the money went my friends,-1 I believe, I should have done if I wished had no more hula-hula and no more poi to stay on the island, and this remissness for them. Those days I lived principally of mine nearly frustrated my nicely on bananas ; anyone would give me a laid plans. Queen Pomare was a non- dozen, they were so cheap. At last I entity and the government was in the was turned out of the house, but I had hands of the French, who exercised a fortunately made friends with an old, strict supervision over all arrivals. decrepit Vahina, who owned a dilapidated However, after a great deal of parlez- hut in the suburbs, where I could vousing, and by the aid of a goodly number have a shake down night time. Her of dollars, which considerably diminished continued coughing and spitting disgusted my small hoard, I finally gained permis- me so much, however, that I preferred sion for one year's residence on any of to spend the nights in the market or the islands under French protectorate. under the trees.

For a month I lived in Elysium. With At this time an American brig, called the usual recklessness of youth I the Fire-Fly, sailing under the Hawaiian squandered my little capital on all the flag, happened to be lying at a wharf. I pleasures the island could give me,- made friends with the crew and had boating and riding excursions, expensive many a good meal on board of her, until dances (to see the real hula-hula cost the mate one day asked me if I was a money, as it was prohibited), and many regular boarder. I made out to answer other extravagances suggested by the that I missed a meal occasionally, when climate ; and I always had company, he suggested, that the more I missed the both male and female, and I also in vari- better. I took the hint and visited her ably footed the bills. When the first only after dark, when I always was sure of getting something to eat. Now and deviltry and to take down his pomposity then one of my former friends asked me a bit, I retorted in defense of the natives, to come in to lunch with him, but those and before long we were in high dispute. occasions were few and far between; they probably used some disrespectful langenerally looked another way when they guage towards my noble host, and the saw me.

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consequence was that the choleric genI began to be well- too well — known, tleman ordered me out of his house in and the French gendarmes, although high dudgeon,- called me a “tam'd polite enough, watched my movements peachcomper and other opprobrious suspiciously. One day, walking on the names,-his gratitude had evaporated. “ broom” road, along the beach, I had By subsisting on cheap fruit, and a the luck to aid a little boy, who had meal now and then on board of one of the accidentally tumbled into the water. trading schooners from San Francisco, I The water was not deep and there was managed to get along pretty fairly, and no danger, but the boy was scared and as I had the “permission de residence' was screaming lustily when I lifted him in my pocket, I could not be molested by out. I thought no more of it, but the the zealous guardians of the peace. I next day I was unexpectedly accosted by went out fishing a few times with the a portly gentleman, who greeted me with natives on the reef, but I somehow came great effusion as the preserver of his to grief every time and got spilled out, child. In vain I protested that I had not and had a lot of the sharp spikes of the done anything to merit his thanks; but I treacherous echinus thrust into my feet, had to go with him to his house to be making me dance with agony, so I gave thanked by " mamma." I suppose I up that amusement. My greatest pleaswas too disreputable looking to sit with was to borrow a canoe and paddle them at the table, but food was brought myself out back of Motuti, where I would out to me on the veranda, and I was be unobserved, and then stretch myself really too hungry to be anyways particu- out in the bottom of the canoe and look lar and refuse it. It was not a luxuriant over the side into the water, which was meal by any means, but as it was I took so clear that I could see the bottom at “the goods the gods provided,” and very any depth. What a glorious spectacle little remained when I was through. that was ! ever changing, ever new.

After the lunch the fat gentleman Mountains and valleys, grottos and forbrought cigars out to me, and with great ests of corral; white, red, yellow, and condescension engaged me in conversa- green, blended together. Fishes, of all tion. He told me that he was the Amer. shapes and colors, chased each other in ican consul, which I knew already; that never-ceasing play; naiads pursued by he had been a colonel in the late war, Tritons in endless triumph! For hours and had been wounded, and that his I lay like this, watching the vast, gorgeous forefathers had been of some consequence transformation scene beneath me until -in Germany, I think he said. He had my inside warned me to desist, and paddone all the talking with much pomposity dle ashore to forage for bananas. Many so far, and I listened drowsily, which he insolent questions were often asked and took for respect. When that subject was insulting remarks made by some of the evidently exhausted he began to talk white residents living in Papeute, to about Tahiti and his troubles here, and which I generally replied with equal inbegan to abuse the natives. Just for solence, so I did not make any friends

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