matter of inquiry was, What medicine will attach all subjects to their king? for Kamrasi wants some of that most particularly." I answered, "Knowledge of good government, attended with wisdom and justice, is all the medicine we know of; and that his boys can best learn in England, and instruct him in when they return."

7th. We went to meet Kamrasi at his Kafu palace to bid goodby. After all the huckstering and begging with which he had tormented us, the state he chose to assume on this occasion was very ludicrous. He sat with an air of the most solemn dignity upon his throne of skins, regarding us like mere slaves, and asking what things we intended to send to him. On being told we did not like being repeatedly reminded of our promises, he came down a little from his dignity, saying, "And what answer have you about the business on the island?" meaning the request to fight his brothers. That, of course, could not be listened to, as it was against the principles of our country. Grant's rings were then espied, and begged for, but without success. We told him it was highly improper to beg for every thing he saw, and if he persisted in it, no one would ever dare to come near him again.

Then, to change the subject, we begged K'yengo's men might be allowed to go as far as Gani with us; but no reply was given until the question was put again, with a request that the reasons might be told us for his not wishing it, as we saw great benefit would be derived to Unyoro, as the Wanyamŭézi, instead of trading merely with Karagué and Zanzibar, would bring their ivory through this country and barter it, thus converting Unyoro into a great commercial country; when Kamrasi said, "We don't want any more ivory in Unyoro, for the tusks are already as numerous as grass." Kidgwiga was then appointed to receive all the things we were to send back from Gani; our departure was fixed for the 9th, and the king walked away as coldly as he came, while we felt as jolly as birds released from a cage.

Floating islands of grass were seen going down the Kafu, reminding us of the stories told at Kazé by Musa Mzŭri, of the violent manner in which, at certain seasons, the N'yanza was said to rise and rush with such velocity that islands were uprooted and carried away. In the evening a pot of pombé was brought, when the man in charge, half drunk, amused us with frantic charges, as if he were fighting with his spear; and after settling the supposed enemy, he delighted in trampling him under foot, spearing him

repeatedly through and through, then wiping the blade of the spear in the grass, and finally polishing it on his tufty head, when, with a grunt of satisfaction, he shouldered arms, and walked away hero.

8th. As the king seemed entirely to disregard our comfort on the journey, we made a request for cows, butter, and coffee; in answer to which we only got ten cows, the other things not being procurable without delay. Twenty-four men were appointed to escort us and bring back our presents from Gani, which were to be-six carbines, with a magazine of ammunition, a large brass or iron water-pot, a hair-brush, lucifers, a dinner-knife, and any other things procurable that had never been seen in Unyoro.

Two orphan boys, seized by the king as slaves, were brought for education to England; but as they were both of the common negro breed, with nothing attractive about them, and such as no one could love but their mothers, we rejected them, fearing lest no English boys would care to play with them, and told Kamrasi that his offspring only could play with our children, and unless I got some princes of that interesting breed, no one would ever undertake to teach children brought from his country. The king was very much disappointed at this announcement; said they were his adopted children, and the only ones he could part with, for his own boys were mere balls of fat, and too small to leave home.

CHAPTER XIX.

THE MARCH TO MADI.

Sail down the Kafu.-The navigable Nile.-Fishing and Sporting Population.The Scenery on the River.—An inhospitable Governor.-Karuma Falls.—Native Superstitions.-Thieveries.—Hospitable Reception at Koki by Chongi.

AFTER giving Kamrasi a sketching-stool, we dropped down the

To North Chaguzi, 9th.

Kafu two miles in a canoe, in order that the common people might not see us, for the exclusive king would not allow any eyes but his own to be indulged with the extraordinary sight of white men in Unyoro! The palace side of the river, however, as we paddled away, was thronged with anxious spectators, among whom the most conspicuous was the king's favorite nurse. Dr. K'yengo's men were very anxious to accompany us, even telling the king, if he would allow the road to be opened to their countrymen, all would hongo, or pay customsduty, to him; but the close, narrow-minded king could not be persuaded. Bombay here told us Kamrasi at the last moment wished to give me some women and ivory; and when told we never accepted any thing of that sort, wished to give them to my head servants; but this being contrary to standing orders also, he said he would smuggle them down to the boats for Bombay in such a manner that I should not find it out.

To Kitwara, 10th.

We were now expected to march again, but, being anxious my self to see more of the river, before starting, I obtained leave to go by boat as far as the river was navi gable, sending our cattle by land. To this concession was accompanied a request for a few more gun-caps, and liberty was given us to seize any pombé which might be found coming on the river in boats, for the supplies to the palace all come in this manner. We then took boat again, an immense canoe, and, after going a short distance, emerged from the Kafu, and found ourselves on what at first appeared a long lake, averaging from two hundred at first to one thousand yards broad, before the day's work was out; but this was the Nile again, navigable in this way from Urondogani.

Both sides were fringed with the huge papyrus rush. The left one was low and swampy, while the right one-in which the Kidi people and Wanyoro occasionally hunt-rose from the water in a gently sloping bank, covered with trees and beautiful convolvuli, which hung in festoons. Floating islands, composed of rush, grass, and ferns, were continually in motion, working their way slowly down the stream, and proving to us that the Nile was in full flood. On one occasion we saw hippopotami, which our men said came to the surface because we had domestic fowls on board, supposing them to have an antipathy to that bird. Boats there were, which the sailors gave chase to; but, as they had no liquor, they were allowed to go their way, and the sailors, instead, set to lifting baskets and taking fish from the snares which fishermen, who live in small huts among the rushes, had laid for themselves. After arrival, as we found the boatmen wished to make off, instead of carrying out their king's orders to take us to the waterfall, we seized all the paddles, and kept their tongues quiet by giving them a cow to eat. The overland route, by which Kidgwiga and the cattle went, was not so interesting, by all accounts, as the river one; for they walked the whole way through marshy ground, and crossed one drain in boats, where some savages struggled to plunder our men of their goats.

To Koki, 11th.

With a great deal of difficulty, and after hours of delay, we managed to get under way with two boats besides the original one; and, after an hour and a half's paddling in the laziest manner possible, the men seized two pots of pombé and pulled in to Koki, guided by a king's messenger, who said this was one of the places appointed by order to pick up recruits for the force which was to take us to Gani. We found, however, nothing but loss and disappointment-one calf stolen, and five goats nearly so. Fortunately, the thief who attempted to run off with the goats was taken by my men in the act, tied with his hands painfully tight behind his back, and left, with his face painted white, till midnight, when his comrades stole into Bombay's hut and released him. After all these annoyances, the chief officer of the place offered us a present of a goat, but was sent to the right-about in scorn. How could he be countenanced

as a friend when the men under him steal from us?

The big boat gave us the slip, floating away and leaving its paddles behind. To supply its place, we took six small boats, turning my men into sailors, and going

To Guéni, S., 12th.

as we liked. The river still continued beautiful; but, after paddling three hours, we found it bend considerably, and narrow to two hundred yards, the average depth being from two to three fathoms. At the fourth hour, imagining our cattle to be far behind, we pulled in, and walked up a well-cultivated hill to Yaragonjo's, the governor of these parts. The guide, however, on first sighting his thorn-fenced cluster of huts, regarding it apparently with the awe and deference due to a palace, shrank from advancing, and merely pointed, till he was forced on, and in the next minute we found ourselves confronted with the heads of the establishment. The father of the house, surprised at our unexpect ed manner of entrance-imagining, probably, we were the king's sorcerers, in consequence of our hats, sent to fight "the brothers" -without saying a word, quietly beckoned us to follow him out of the gate by the same way as we came. Preferring, however, to have a little talk where we were, we remained.

The eldest son, a fine young man considerably above six feet high, with large gashes on his body received in war during late skirmishes with the refractory brothers, now came in, did the honors, and, on hearing of the importance of his visitors, directed us to some huts a little distance off, where we could rest for the night, for there was no accommodation for such a large party in the palace. The red hill we were now on, with plantain gardens, fine huts neatly kept, and dense grasses covering the country, reminded us of our residence in Uganda. The people seemed of a decidedly sporting order, for they kept hippopotamus-harpoons, attached to strong ropes with trimmers of pith wood, in their huts; and outside, trophies of their toil in the shape of a pile of heads, consisting of those of buffalo and hippopotami. The women, any thing but pretty, wore their mbugŭ cut into two flounces, fastened with a drawing-string round the waist; and, in place of stockings, they bound strings of small iron beads, kept bright and shining, carefully up the leg from the ankle to the bottom of the calf. Kidgwiga with our cattle arrived in the morning. A bundle To Guéni, N., of cartridges, stolen from one of the men's pouches, which we knew could only have been done by some comrade, was discovered by stopping the rations of flesh. The guilty person, to save detection, threw it on the road, and allowed some of the natives to pick it up. Strange as it may appear, the only motive for this petty theft was the hope of being able to sell the cartridges for a trifle at Gani. Yaragonjo brought us a pres

13th.