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CHAPTER VII..
BUFFAVENTO.
Bee-hives-The Queen's Castle-Paradise-Take a Guide-Gradual Ruin
-En Avant-The Guides suspect Treasure Hunting-The Fortress-
Zaptiehs and their Masters-Plucky Guide-The Highest Tower-
View from the Summit-A German Female Recluse-Peculiar People
in Carpasia-The Descent-Fortresses destroyed by Venetians-Sale
of Crown Lands-Decline of Old Nobility
PAGE
54
CHAPTER VIII.
TURKISH GOVERNORS.
Visit from the Pacha-One Hundred Years Ago-How Governors
feathered their Nests-Poll-tax-Expostulation-Report to the Sultan
-Arrival of the Imperial Envoy-Public Reading of the Sultan's
Commands-Fall of the Floor of the State Chamber-Explanation of
the Trap-The Governor will not be governed-Attacked by the
Populace Death of the Governor-A New Governor-Intrigues and
another Poll-tax-Popular Refusal-Preparations for Rebellion—The
Water cut off-The Edict withdrawn-Again a Poll-tax-The Nobles
head the Insurrection-Blockade of Nikosia-Again the Tax with-
drawn-Arrival of a New Governor-Disappointed Hopes-Proposals-
Order again restored-The Poll-tax again demanded-General Revolt
-Attack on Famagusta-Siege of Nikosia-Eastern Wiles-Mediation
by English Consul-Fighting continued-Arrival of Corsairs-A strong
Argument-Arrival of Special Envoy to compel Order-Deserters from
the Rebel Camp-Rebels retire to Keryneia-The Castle besieged-An
Open-hearted Turkish Sailor!—Betrayal of Halil Aga-Capitulation-
Smiles Treacherous Execution - Two Hundred salted Heads
Order restored
62
CHAPTER IX.
THE PLAINS OF CYPRUS.
Expedition to ascend Olympus-No Information to be obtained-Neglected
Districts-Game-Prompt Action of my Zaptieh-Faithful obedience
of Mussulman Servants-Akazi-Easter-Fasting extraordinary—
Abstinence of the Greeks-Heat .
CHAPTER X.
EVRYCHU.
Cool Waters-Evrychu-In Church-Healthy Population-Graceful and
interesting Customs-Greek Houses-Our Host and his Family-An
Easter Dinner-Classic Christian Names-Absence of large Trees-
Cypriote Clergy
83
CHAPTER XI.
MOUNT OLYMPUS.
A Mountain Pass-Lost our Way-Heroism of the Dragoman!-Sight of
a Glacier-Absence of Large Timber at Base of Mountain-Dragoman
again! who fairly bolts-Horses and Zaptieh left behind-Heavy
Work in the Snow-Scene from the Summit-Alone !-No Trace of
Ruins
.
90
CHAPTER XII.
CYPRUS IN ANCIENT TIMES.
Descent of Olympus-A Retrospect-The busy Phoenicians-Shipbuilders
for the Euphrates-The Goddess Astarte―The New Religion-Trojan
War, the first Struggle between East and West-Grecian Warrior
Colonists-Evidence of Ancient Inscriptions-The Nine Kingdoms of
Cyprus-Attacks by Continental Nations-Cyprus appealed to for
Assistance The Cyprian Navy-Philip of Macedon—Alexander the
Great Cyprian Shipwrights on the Indus-Artisans of Cyprus-
Ptolemies-An Egyptian Ruler-Cyprus a Roman Province-Under
Roman Dominion-Aphroditissa-The Idol Stone-Little Images of the
Madonna-Revolution of the Jews-Great Slaughter-A Land of
Saints
97
CHAPTER XIII.
TROADITISSA.
Dangerous Ground-Disappointment-Easter-Eve Festivities-An Official
Menace Hear of a Gentleman-Demons and Kobolds-Fini-Arrival
-Stable Accommodation-The Dragoman again-Hunger-Cloister
Rations-Wine makes the Heart Glad-A Village Congregation-After
Mass-Hospitality of the Church-Beautiful Girls-Doctors required
-Fasting-Precious Relic-Russian Gift-The Picture endowed with
Healing Powers-Gratitude-Mountains and Trees-Heat-Shepherds. 112
CHAPTER XIV.
CYPRIAN WOODS AND FORESTS.
Neglect of Forests-Preservation by former Rulers-Gradual Destruc-
tion-Shipbuilding-Exportation of Timber-Wanton Destruction-
Forest Fires-Resin and Pitch-Process of extracting Resin-Suicidal
Revenge Protection required-British Legislation-The late Governor
of Cyprus-Sad Prospect for the Island-Eucalyptus
121
CHAPTER XV.
PLAGUES OF LOCUSTS.
Locusts in olden Times-An Egyptian Plague for Two Years-Gradual
Increase Young Locusts-Devastation-Energy of Turkish Pacha-
Troops are called out-A Remedy is found-M. Mattei-The Locusts
effectually stopped
CHAPTER XVI.
127
CHRYSOROGIATISSA.
Rivers of Southern Cyprus-Rippling Waters-View of the Monastery of
Kikku-A valuable Picture-Panagia-Wild Fruits-The Monks
disturbed-Fine Figure of the Saviour-Carvings-Breakfast with the
Abbot-Deserted State of the Country-Robbers-Alarm of the Servants
-Prisons-Execution of Criminals-An interesting Prisoner-A
Cypriote Robin Hood-Dowries to a Thousand Girls-A romantic Thief
-Prison Life-Stalwart Monks-Turkish Women-Miserable Huts-
Approach to Paphos-Ktima-Advent of Venus .
130
CHAPTER XVII.
THE TEMPLE OF VENUS.
Bishop of Baffo-View of the Ruins-Gigantic Stones-Old Temple-
Curious Holes in Stones, producing Echo-Mosaics-Sacrificial Rites-
The Idol Stone-Ruins of former City-View from the Temple-An
Admirer of Sappho-A Turkish Farmer-Queen's Cave-An inscribed
Stone Slab-Rock-cut Tombs-Watch-tower-Dinner: Bill-of-Fare-A
Turkish Housewife-Nocturnal Reflections-Worship of Venus-Holy
Cloth for the Caaba-The Cone-shaped Stones-Doves of Venus—
Meteoric Stones
. 139
CHAPTER XVIII.
SUMMER RESIDENCE IN CYPRUS.
Donkeys and Mules-Muleteers-Starting on a Journey-Mounted!--Com-
missariat of Travelling Cypriote-General Cesnola-Village of Dali-
Out-door Nights in Summer-A delightful Retreat
149
CHAPTER XIX.
CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE.
Family Affection-Female Influence-Modern Greeks-Bad Qualities-
Simony-Flatterers-Luxury-Taking his Ease-Shameful Effeminacy 155
CHAPTER XX.
CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE.
Syrian Heat-Cool Mountain Breezes-Fevers-Wine, a Remedy for Ague
-Seasons-Excessive Heat - Hot Winds - Scarcity-Spring-Sep-
tember-L'Imbat-Snow
161
CHAPTER XXI.
BAFFO AND KUKLIA.
Dealer in Curiosities-Ktima-Rock-cut Tombs-Palæo Castro-Graves
-Antiquities-Ossuaries-Relics of Funeral Feasts-Ruins of a Temple
-St. Paul-Koloni-Asbestos-Sacred Garden--Bath of Aphrodite—
Ieroskipo-Kapatah-Ancient Harbour-Ruins of Churches-Buried
Treasures-A Cyprian Dinner-Tombs-Arsinoe-Loadstone Temple-
Berenice Treasures for Naturalists-Tax-gatherers
. 167
CHAPTER XXII.
EPISKOPI.
Coffee-house-Thistle Seeds-Snake-Game-Adimu-Apollo Hylades
Guard Houses-Pirates-Lycos-Egyptian Beauties-No Accomodation 179
CHAPTER XXIII.
KOLOSSIN.
A Turkish Farmer-Square Tower-Oxen-Norman Architecture-An old
Fortress-Knights Templars-Wine-Beccaficos .
184
CHAPTER XXIV.
SOIL AND MINERAL PRODUCTS.
Mountains-Rich Soil-Alluvial Deposits-Gardens-Copper Mines-Gold
and Silver-Salt-Volcanic Eruptions-Precious Stones-Amber-
Asbestos-Robes of the Priests
. 191
CHAPTER XXV.
NATURAL PRODUCTS.
Under the Lusignans-Wine, Oil, &c.-Carob-tree-Cyprian Dyes-Grasp-
ing Policy of Venice-Olive-trees-Government of Cyprus-A valuable
Farm-Sultan of Egypt-Tribute-Turks-Flowers-Tobacco-Corn-
Timber-Flowers-Fertility of Soil-Jujube-tree-Distilled Oils-
Cotton-Silk-Game-Wine-Taxes-Decline of Cultivation-Poor
fare-Potatoes-Spiders-Beef and Mutton .
194
CHAPTER XXVI.
ST. NICHOLAS AND LIMASOL.
News of Marble Relics-Off to search-Heavy Weather-Church of St.
Nicholas Ancient Temple-Monastery Garden-Salt Marsh—Building
Houses-Turkish Women, Coquetry-Franciscan Convent-Monastic
Graveyard-A new Church-A smart Man-Manufacture of Antiquities
-A Parade round the Town-Hospitable Priests-Schools-Domestic
Economy of Cyprian Family-A Cyprian Lady-Chinese Nobility—
Prospects of Trade-Population-Revenue-Bribery
202
CHAPTER XXVII.
AMATHUS.
A Morning Ride-A sudden Change-The devouring Lion-Heat—
Favoured Tracts-Site of Amathus-Export of Stone-A natural For-
tress-Hamath-French Antiquarians-A precious Relic-Vandalism
by French Officers-Gigantic Vases-Adonis-Anemones-Feasts-
Pygmalion-Paphos, Son of Pygmalion-Under the Ptolemies-Remains
of the City-Excavations-Amathus, the City-Mania for Destruction
-Capo delle Gatte-Cats
. 211