which was probably the width of the cloth. The collar is narrow, as in some of the most fashionable frock coats of the present day. The sleeves consist of two portions joined at an angle across the elbow, below which it is open like that of the modern Greek or Albanian jacket, and has twelve small buttons extending along the outer flap. Where the sleeve joins the back, a full gusset is inserted, and the cuff consists of a slight turn-in, an inch and a half wide. The inside and lower portion of each sleeve has been much worn, and is patched with a coarse felt-like material of black and orange plaid, similar to that in the trowsers found on the same body. All the seams of this garment are sewn with woollen thread of three plies.

"The trowsers or trews are of a coarser material than the coat, and consist of two distinct parts, of different colours and textures. The upper is a bag of thick, coarse, yellowish-brown cloth, nineteen inches deep, doubled below, and passing for some way down on the thighs. It is sewn up at the sides, and made full behind. The legs are composed of a brown and orange yellow (or saffron colour) plaid, in equal squares of about an inch wide, and woven straight across; but each leg-piece has been cut bias, so as to bring the diagonal of the plaid along the length of the limb, and it is inserted into a slit in the front of the bag, extending inwards and upwards from the outer angle. The legs are as narrow as those of a pair of modern pantaloons, and must have fitted the limbs tightly; they are sewn up behind, with the seam outside, while in the bag portion the seams are inside. Below, the legs are scolloped or cut out both over the instep and the heel, the extremities coming down to points at the sides. The angle in front is strengthened by an ingenious piece of needle-work like that used in working buttonholes. It is said that these ends were attached behind to the uppers of the shoes, Nos. 16 and 17, described at page 291. All the sew. ing in this garment was also effected with woollen thread, but of only two plies. These close-fitting trowsers are evidently the ancient Celtic bracce or chequered many-coloured lower garment, the triubhais or truis, now drawn from nature, and explaining by the way they were attached to the sacculated portion above, and the shoes below, many hitherto unaccountable expressions in Giraldus, especially when he says, 'The Irish wear breeches ending in shoes, or shoes ending in breeches.' Archdeacon Lynch, in his Cambrensis Eversus, writing in 1662, says on this subject, The breeches used by the Irish was a long garment, not cut at the knees, but comprising in itself the sandals, the stocking, and the drawers, and drawn by one pull over the feet and thighs. [They] cover the groin, but not sufficiently, if the long skirts of the tunic were not wrapped over them."-pp. 326-9.

From these interesting fragments some idea may be formed of Dr. Wilde's general treatment of the subject of

costume, as a branch of national antiquities. The ingenuity with which he has gathered together from the most dissimilar, and even incongruous sources, scraps and fragments of information bearing more or less remotely on the subject, or suggestive of some theory or conjecture which might be employed in illustrating it, is a rare example of the almost instinctive felicity with which the mind of a cultivated scholar is enabled to seize on all the minutiæ, however scattered and obscure, of the subject with which he has to deal; to borrow from each, light for the illustration of its fellows, as well as of the common whole; and to combine all into one connected picture, exhibiting, almost in their completeness, all, even the smallest details of the subject. Much interest and curiosity were excited some years since by the reproduction, as objects of fashionable bijouterie, of some of the antique patterns of the Irish brooch, and of the Irish mantle and hair pin. In specimens of these objects the Museum of the Academy is very rich; and although the present portion of Dr. Wilde's Catalogue does not comprise the precious metals, nevertheless, the examples selected are exceedingly curious, and present a very large variety. Of the pins, we confine ourselves to one or two specimens. The following is selected for the grotesqueness of its design.

Fig. 214.

This curious relic is of bone, and was found in a field near Newbridge, in the county of Kildare. It is extremely well carved, and the figure may call to mind the grotesque imaginations in which the architects of some of the mediæval buildings were wont to indulge. Several pins of similar material and of equally excellent workmanship, though of less fanciful design, have been found in the county of Westmeath, and are still remarkably fresh and well preserved.

We purpose, however, to place before the reader specimens which may more strictly be described as of a purely national design and character; and with this view we turn rather to the objects in bronze, a very favourite material in the ornamental arts, whether sacred or profane, in Ireland.

No. 13. figured no fewer than fourteen.

Of the bronze ring-pins, Dr. Wilde has

VOL. L.-No. XCIX.

10

Fig. 453.
No. 126.

Fig. 454.

No. 422.

The second] may remind the ecclesiologist of the peculiar form of the corona of the aucient Irish monumental cross. The third" represents, of the true size, the largest of a series of hammer-headed pins, that appear to be of a special and peculiarly Irish pattern. Each has a central aperture, with a pectinated set of jewel-holes, generally five, above the flat semicircular enamelled face. The elevated cast decoration within the margin is usually of the bird pattern, and only rises to the level of the enamel."

The following specimens, however, are more interesting, as exhibiting in a very marked manner, the well-known scroll pattern which is common in the illustrative art of Ireland from the seventh century downwards.

This curious and characteristic pattern, however, as indeed in general the richness and variety of the designs, is displayed to far greater advantage in the larger ornament which was in use for fastening the cloak, or the folds of the over-garment, and which is usually

Fig. 465.

No. 326.

known as the Ring-brooch. The elaborate and exquisitely finished trinket known as the Tara Brooch is a familiar example of this class. The following, though not uncommon in collections, are less popularly known.

Fig. 469, No. 344.

We are tempted to add another example of this curious and peculiar scroll-work, as well for the superior beauty of its execution, as because it may in some sense be regarded as a memorial of one to whom antiquarian science, both in Ireland and in England, is deeply indebted-the late lamented J. M. Kemble. The brooch figured here was, in his opinion, the finest specimen of bronze workmanship in the collection of the Academy. One of his last works, before his fatal illness, was a careful drawing of this rare and curious object.

It was found in the crannoge (or insular mound surrounded by bog,) of Ardakillen, near Strokestown, in Roscommon. "The decoration on the enlarged ends partakes of the Celtic trumpet-pattern, a miniature facsimile of those curious bosses of thin sheet brass already referred to, and like them hammered or punched up from behind; while the central connecting curved strap, decorated with a raised intertwinement, like that seen on some of our sculptured crosses, and in the illumination of ancient manuscripts, would appear to have been cast. The exceedingly thin ornamented plate in front is fastened by eight rivets to a stout flat plate, behind, which also overlaps the edges of the strap. The flat pin is hinged behind."

We are unwilling to forestall by further specimens the interest with which our readers will enjoy a personal examination of the contents of this most admirable work: but we cannot deny ourselves the pleasure of introducing one further illustration, which presents in a single group a large variety of the wind-instruments preserved in the Academy, many of which have given occasion to much discussion.