the present day that but for that speech of Tallandier the plot would have succeeded. Musafir was assured that all the regiments on the eastern frontier had been gained, and needed but the signal from Strasbourg to rally to the Napoleonic standard. It is, perhaps, better as it is. The emperor owes much to his six years of silence and meditation in the castle of Ham.

We have now brought to a conclusion the rough notes with which we have been entrusted by Captain Musafir. They tell but a plain and unvarnished story; but if the perusal of that story incite others to reserve themselves for the intense pleasure, whilst yet they are able to enjoy it, of European travel; if it induce them to shake off local prejudices and to conform as much as may be to the standard prevalent in Europe; if it persuade them to see and judge for themselves whether their countrymen in Europe are so cold and distant as they are sometimes represented to be by resident Anglo-Indians, we shall not regret the trouble of the compilation, for we shall then feel that we have accomplished a real success.

We will only add that Captain Musafir has promised to send us the notes he took of a pedestrian journey in the Salzkammergut and Tirol the year subsequent to the adventures we have recorded. Should they appear after examination to be of a nature to enlist the interest of the public, we shall endeavour to prepare them for a future number.

III.

THE requests which have reached us on the subject, from very many quarters, induce us to lay before the public the third and last division of Captain Musafir's tour in the mountains of Europe. We do so with the less regret, because we regard the subject as pre-eminently fraught with interest to Anglo-Indians. Those who have passed the best part of their lives in India, and to whom Europe appears in the same light as did the promised land to the wearied followers of Moses ere yet Pisgah was reached and the waters of the Jordan left behind, are particularly anxious to learn from the experience of travelled Anglo-Indians, what they must do, where they should go, what preparations are necessary for the journey, the capabilities of the countries which they must traverse, the habits of European life, the expenses of travelling, its discomforts and advantages. Now, we need scarcely repeat that we do not write for those whose sole, or whose chief, object in life is what is called " society," a phrase which we take to signify shabby-gentility of the highest order, a sort of life in which each family vies with its neighbour in profusion of outward show, and in which the

giving and attending formal dinner-parties, with their necessary concomitants of late hours and heating stimulants, appear the end and aim of being. Such a life as this, with its many variations, its natural fostering of superficial accomplishments, and its tendency to emasculate the mind, has always appeared to us to be a waste of existence. For those congenial spirits whom it suits these pages are not written. We address ourselves solely to those who love nature in her endless varieties of matchless beauty, who prefer the green slopes of the mountain sides to the waxed floor of the ballroom, the glorious sunrise to the glare of gas-lamps, and the sparkling water of the mountain stream to the peculiar compound which too often does duty for champagne. For these and these alone we string together the rough notes of Captain Musafir. In a perusal of his travels they will find at least some indication of the pleasures which wandering over the Alpine regions opens out to the manly mind; they will see that it requires little money and that it entails little trouble to find enjoyment unsurpassed anywhere in the world; and, seeing this, they will think it no deprivation to abstain from costly and unsatisfactory indulgences in this country, in order the more thoroughly to avail themselves, when they are able to take to their furlough, of the rich enjoyment of European travel.

It has been suggested to us by more than one of those who have expressed an interest in the previous account of Captain Musafir's wandering, that we should endeavour to add to the practical character of the narrative by stating in a detailed form the proper outfit of a traveller, the amount of baggage to which he should confine himself, and the

expenses of the route. It is our intention to respond as fully as we can to this invitation, and, as we hold very strongly the opinion that the pleasures of travelling, great at all times, are immensely enhanced by the society of ladies, we shall make our remarks on this head applicable to both sexes. We shall indicate the nature and number of the dresses each ought to carry, and shall point out the means by which those who are accustomed to the unlimited amplitude of an Indian wardrobe may be induced to restrict their requirements to the simple necessities of the traveller. In fact we hope to make this paper practically useful to the Anglo-Indians of the class for which it is written.

But before we enter on this part of the subject we shall lay before our readers, from Captain Musafir's notes, his account of his tour in Tirol and the mountains adjacent. It was but a simple walk of a month's duration, taken in company with a friend. But though simple, it was beyond description enjoyable. In fact its simplicity constituted one of its chief charms. To see the mountain-peasants in all the vivid reality of unsophisticated life, courteous, friendly, hospitable, fond of strangers, anxious to please, unspoilt by a pseudo-civilization, neither grasping nor reserved, but in the highest sense of the term enjoying existence, going to their work in the morning with zest and returning from it with a light heart, ready to join in the rustic dance, or to listen to the sound of the guitar, its strings deftly struck by the hands of some village maiden ;—to see them, happy and contented, never uproarious or drunken, satisfied with little, never happier than when hired to assist a gentleman in his pursuit of the chamois, or to accompany

him in a crusade against the finny tribes;-to see them thus, is a sight now, alas! only to be witnessed in Austria and Tirol,―countries in which no over-pressure of a selfish civilization has produced rudeness of speech and sullenness of conduct, and where, as yet, associations for licensed murder, such as those which have lately been exposed at Sheffield, are, thank God, unknown and impossible. Of all the European races, indeed, there are none who in manly symmetry of form, and in womanly beauty, in hearty, honest simplicity of life and manners, and in natural refinement and warm-heartedness, can bear comparison with the peasantry of Upper and Lower Austria, Styria, Carinthia' Carniola, and Tirol. In this part of the world the traveller, if he be not himself a boor, can enjoy the best and finest of all those blessings which make this earth so bright; he sees the most glorious scenery, not surpassed by Switzerland; he can wander over paths, accessible to all, and of wonderful loveliness; he need take with him only a few clothes, for everything else he finds provided in the cleanest of inns by the most civil of hosts; he has abundant society, for the conversation of the peasants is a mine of gold,-not to speak of the travellers constantly met with; music is there a national passion; sport of all sorts is abundant; civility and kindliness are Austrian habits. To enjoy all this it is only necessary that the traveller should be capable of enjoyment; that he should not have been spoiled by artificial manners and that over-refinement of civilization which can see nothing good in a foreigner; that he should conform to national customs and meet politeness with its like. For a man