Zanzibar on board the Lady Nyassa for Bombay.-African Sailors.-Arrival at Bombay.......................... Recapitulation of the Results of the Expedition.-Discovery of a Port, and a means of Transit to healthy Highlands.-Fertility of Soil.-Indigo.-Cotton. -Climate and Soil admirably suited for its Cultivation.-Large Cotton- bushes of the Interior. -Tobacco and Castor-oil Plants, and Sugar-cane. -Grasses. Continuous Crops. - Fat Cattle. - Droughts. - Hard Woods common.-Timber scarce.-Sarsaparilla.-Calumba-root.-Fibrous and oil- yielding Plants and Trees.-Want of heart to describe discoveries in Africa. -Gloom of the Slave-trade.-Different Ways in which it is carried on.- Direct European agency in the Traffic.—Napoleon III.—“Engagé System." -Slave-trade a barrier to all Progress.-Its Effects on Slave-owners' Coun- try.-Cause of the War in America.—Similar Effect of centuries of Barbar- ism on African and other Nations.-The African physically, his Lightheart- edness.-Fitness for Servitude not attributable to Climate.-Form of Gov- ernment Patriarchal.—African Stagnation from the same cause as that of other Nations.—Man an unconscious Co-operator.-Guided by Wisdom not his own. Is the greatest Power derivable from Science reserved for Chris- tians?—The African's Capability for Christianity.-Kindness the best Road to the Heart.-Sierra Leone Missions.-Sunday at Sierra Leone.—State- ment of Captain Burton.-Statistics of Sierra Leone.-Continuance of Lord Palmerston's Policy needed.—Trade Returns.—Colonel Ord's Report.—In- fluences of Settlements.-Mortality on board the West Coast Squadron.— Treatment of Fever.-Missionary Societies on the West Coast.-Our Amer- ican Missionary Brethren.-Suggestions for a Solution of our Convict Ques- LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Page 3. View of Mazaro.-Fight between Portuguese and Rebels in the distance....... 1. Bird's-eye View of the Great Cataracts of the Zambesi......... Frontispiece. 2. Pandanus or Screw Palm, covered with climbing Plants, near the Kongone Canal of the Zambesi....... ....... 20 31 4. Dance of Landeens, or Zulds, come to lift the Annual Tribute from the Portuguese at Shupanga.... 41 5. Weapons for killing the Hippopotamus..... 44 61 7. Women with Water-pots, listening to the Music of the Marimba, Sansa, and Pan's Pipes........ 8. Mamvira Cataract, the first or lowest of Murchison's Cataracts..... 9. Group of Native Musicians 89 98 10. African Fiddle of one String. 105 11. View of Steamer, Traps, and dead Hippopotamus.... 107 12. Fish-basket......... 112 13. Native Web, and Weaver smoking the huge Tobacco-pipe of the 17. Landeens, or Zulus, who lift Tribute of the Portuguese at Senna, exhibiting War Exercises......... 152 18. Wedding Procession at Tette. 160 19. The Ma-Robert in the Zambesi above Senna, with the saddle-shaped Hill Kevramisa in the distance...... 25. Gang of Captives met at Mbame's on their Way to Tette.............. 26. An old Manganja Woman, showing the Pelele, or Lip-ring, and the Tattooing in intersecting Lines on Face, Arms, and Body........... 416 27. The Grave of Mrs. Livingstone under the Baobab-tree, near to Shupanga House...... 439 xxii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 28. Beehive. Baskets employed by Women to catch Fish 29. View of Quillimane and of the "Pioneer". 30. Poisoned Arrows...... 31. Females Hoeing. 32. Chia Hand-net..... 33. Manganja Spears..... 34. Woman grinding. 35. Native Mill for grinding Corn........ 36. Maravi Bow......... MAP to illustrate Dr. Livingstone's Travels............... 463 471 491 524 531 532 569 570 583 At the end. THE ZAMBESI AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. INTRODUCTION. Objects of the Expedition.-Portuguese Expedition in Search of the Ophir of King Solomon.-India and not Africa indicated by the Merchandise sought. -Failure in Sofalla.-Second Portuguese Expedition after Gold Mines.Repulsed by large bodies of Natives.-Catholic Missions.-Want of reliable Information regarding them.-Erroneous Ideas as to the Interior of Africa.Sir Roderick Murchison's Hypothesis correct. -Decrease of the Slave-trade, and Increase of lawful Commerce on the West Coast, owing to Lord Palmerston's Policy.-The Fatality of the Murderer attends the Slave-trader.Opinion of Rev. J. L. Wilson on the Slave-trade.-The Operations of our Cruisers.—Ill Effects of sealing up the East Coast.—Instructions to the Expedition. WHEN first I determined on publishing the narrative of my "Missionary Travels," I had a great misgiving as to whether the criticism my endeavors might provoke would be friendly or the reverse, more particularly as I felt that I had then been so long a sojourner in the wilderness as to be quite a stranger to the British public. But I am now in this, my second essay of authorship, cheered by the conviction that very many readers, who are personally unknown to me, will receive this narrative with the kindly consideration and allowances of friends; and that many more, under the genial influences of an innate love of liberty, and of a desire to see the same social and religious blessings they themselves enjoy, disseminated throughout the world, will sympathize with me in the efforts by which I have striven, however imper A fectly, to elevate the position and character of our fellow-men in Africa. This knowledge makes me doubly anxious to render my narrative acceptable to all my readers; but, in the absence of any excellence in literary composition, the natural consequence of my pursuits, I have to offer only a simple account of a mission which, with respect to the objects proposed to be thereby accomplished, formed a noble contrast to some of the earlier expeditions to Eastern Africa. I believe that the information it will give, respecting the people visited and the countries traversed, will not be materially gainsaid by any future commonplace traveler like myself, who may be blessed with fair health and a gleam of sunshine in his breast. This account is written in the earnest hope that it may contribute to that information which will yet cause the great and fertile continent of Africa to be no longer kept wantonly sealed, but made available as the scene of European enterprise, and will enable its people to take a place among the nations of the earth, thus securing the happiness and prosperity of tribes now sunk in barbarism or debased by slavery; and, above all, I cherish the hope that it may lead to the introduction of the blessings of the Gospel. The first expedition sent to East Africa, after the Portuguese had worked a passage round the Cape, was instituted under the auspices of the government of Portugal, for the purpose, it is believed, of discovering the land of Ophir, made mention of in Holy Scripture as the country whence King Solomon obtained sandal wood, ivory, apes, peacocks, and gold. The terms used by the Jews to express the first four articles had, according to Max Müller, no existence in the Hebrew language, but were words imported into it from the Sanscrit. It is curious, then, that the search was not directed to the Coast of India, more particularly as Sanscrit was known |